LUMBINI

Me and my Argentinean friends had a tough and tedious travel from Varanasi to Lumbini. After waiting for 2 hours delay, when we got inside our coach of the Gorakhpur train, we confronted with a number of people doubling the number of the seats and waited for the conductor to solve our problem. First receiving the bribes from the fugitives, he created 4 seats for us. Arriving Gorakhpur after 7 hours, we found the bus that would drive us to the border in 3 hours. Handling some official processes in just 15 min., we were at the Nepali side with our 2 months visa. We agreed with a taxi for 500 Rp (64 Nepali Rp = 1$) to take us Lumbini. It’s possible to go by bus, which as I remember costs about 30 Rp.

As I wrote before, Lumbini is the birthplace of Buddha, the man who would later achieve enlightenment under a Bodhi tree and inspire a global philosophy of peace.

The town consists of 3 parts. Lumbini Development Zone is a huge park, which includes Maya Devi Temple (marks the exact birthplace of Buddha) and lots of Buddhist monasteries – some had already been built, some under construction – of Buddhist communities around the world. Small market area includes a few budget hotels, restaurants and shops. And the traditional villages in the wetlands, at which I had the most beautiful times in Lumbini.



I spent the rest of the day reading my Lonely Planet Nepal book, after we had arrived late in the afternoon. At the end of day, I realized that Nepal has much more offerings for me than I had expected. It was not just a place for mountaineers trying to climb the peaks of the world or a mixture of Tibetan, Nepali and other local cultures and religions; but a land with great trekking routes including over 5.000 meters passes, which can be done by good trekking equipment and staying in budget hotels available all through the routes. I decided to extend my days in Lumbini for 1-2 day in order to make an efficient plan.

DAY 25
Second day started with a meeting with an old Spanish man (aged around 55), who had been living in Kerala state in India for the last couple of years. Later in the day, I listened his story: a drug and alcohol addict, after when he bottomed out went to an ashram in Kerala and met his guru (a real goddess as he defines). As he told, this guru cured his lifetime illness, which leads to a tic (something like that) that prevents him from sleeping, by touching his legs. He had meditated for one year in the ashram and decided to leave for a while to see how he changed. I must say that I saw his old photograph in his passport and the change was really impressive.

DAY 26
I started my 3rd day morning with a bike ride through the traditional villages, set on the wetlands. After I lost the vision of the market in few minutes, I followed the pathway passing through a small village; which had already woken up. After that were endless fields. Men were tilling the soil, women were harvesting, younger kids were playing while older ones were helping their parents. Almost 2 hours, I enjoyed a ride through infinite green and golden fields.



On the afternoon, I visited the Development Zone with my bike. Met with a Nepali teenager in a pilgrims rest house and talked for nearly an hour about Nepal’s current political situation and our countries’ resemblances on this subject. He was a little bit pessimistic due to what he has confronted with up to this time and maybe because of his age, but aware of all the happenings in his country. I hope that there are more of these youngsters.

DAY 27
At last I visited the Maya Devi Temple. Since it was built over 2.500 years ago, do not expect a well-preserved construction. Unfortunately, I wasn’t in my most spiritual mood because of seeing the hundreds of empty packages of snacks around the monasteries and the Nepali youngsters coming with their bikes and posing on their helmets as if they were in a holiday resort.

As my days in Lumbini finished late in the evening, I had already given my decision. Pokhara would be the next destination and a feasibility study would be made for trekking Annapurna Circuit (for most, the best trekking route in the world).

…………

Now, I’m writing these words on my 3rd day in Pokhara. Last 2 days were passed by dealing with my flu. I think I’ll recover fully at the end of tomorrow. From the first moment I saw the town, I wanted to say to you “Book a flight as soon as possible and get your skinny! asses to here”. But since you would not listen to me, just make your next travel plan to explore Nepal and count me in it.

See you soon,

NEPAL

The country is located between India and Tibet (China), which had been long benefited from its location as a resting place and trade route for traders, travelers and pilgrims. Unfortunately, today, it’s one of the poorest countries in the world (82% of the population –27 mio.- is living on less than 2$/day), which has been still suffering from its political instability. Not fully transformed into democracy, Nepal’s one big problem is the Maoists’ terror, who has been waging the People’s War since 1996 due to government corruption, the failure of democracy and the dissolution of the Communist government. Although the leader of the Maoists declared in 2002 that their attacks would not target the foreigners, the tourism sector naturally has been badly influenced for the last few years. And in the light of what I’ve seen in the last week, I can easily say that this country has a huge potential.

Geographically, we can divide Nepal into two main parts. Consider it as a horizontal rectangle: the below 1/3 of the country, named Terai, consists of plain fields which are very appropriate for agriculture with the help of monsoon rains. The above part is the Himalayas, in which 8 of 10 highest peaks in the world are located.

Varanasi

Maybe the most important and holiest city for pilgrims since they come here to wash away their sins, to die, to be cremated and released into to the waters of The Ganges River.

I came to Varanasi with great expectations: thinking of learning tabla (a kind of drum); seeing and listening the most spiritual cerenomies. Well, now I'm glad that I'm leaving in a few hours to visit the land of Himalayas, Nepal.

I'd arrived at 04:00 AM and searched for my hotel, Vishnu Rest House (nice view, clean - but unfriendly service), recommended by a Polish couple I met before. It took nearly 1 hour of my rickshaw driver to find the place. After sleeping for a while, I threw myself on the streets of Godaulia (The Old City)and then the Dasaswamedh Ghat Rd. The unpleasant feeling inside me since my arrival had been growing with each step. 30 min. walk outside Godaulia was just enough for me to turn back to Godaulia, where I felt safe and away from chaos. It was really like a hell; for the first time I hadn't enjoyed my first day walk. Maybe the reason was the fact that changing cities/towns permanently makes it much harder to adjust yourself to the new place after a while. I had to give some time and chance to Varanasi.



Well, my feelings didn't change; in fact maybe worse than before. I didn't like the local people. I didn't like the young male adults, drank bhang lassi (heavy drug in the form of lassi-very similar to 'ayran' in Turkey), yelling and dancing during the end of Durga Festival (important religious festival), harassing the foreigners (rarely!. And I couldn't have stood more to see the dogs lonely, ignored, injured by other dogs and mostly lying in the corner of the roads-looking for a safe place. Maybe the reason is people I met, maybe the way I see things and maybe the things I experienced before. But anyway since this is my story...

Certainly, lots of people love the city. It gives lots of options to learn how to play Indian music, to yoga and all other things specific to the local culture. You may surely like her.

Three things happened to me that I will remember nicely. The first one is my first
haircut experience in India. It's really hard to find a barber shop with a electrical razor; it took my 1,5 hour to shorten my hair and mustache in the shop I found since the machine was from ancient centuries:)Painful, but funny... The second
one is the cafe, which is my favourite spot in Varanasi, named Lotus Lounge (below photo is my view from there). A teaser for the upcoming Goa...I had visited 6-7 times in 4 days. The owner, Mr. Atul, also has another restaurant in Goa; managing with his European wife.



Starting with a train travel to Gorakphur, my journey to Nepal will start tonight, accompanied by 3 Argentinians. They're the number 3. Two of them had been in Turkey for a while before coming to India and loved her. This might be the reason why we're getting along so well together with all our similarities in country basis. Probably Lumbini, a small village where Buddha was born in 563 BC, will be my next destination. I hope I could erase the unpleasant expression of my face there.

I'm sorry I could not upload the photos, it's difficult in Varanasi. In fact nothing too nice as my time in here.

See you soon,

Khajuraho

It's been nearly a week, since I had written my last entry. In the mean time, I just wanted to be less active. Less shooting, less visiting, just talk with people, have a lemon ginger honey tea and ease my mind...Khajuraho helped me in doing these.

DAY 12
I arrived in this small town on Saturday afternoon by bus from Jhansi. The bus was full of tourists: Spanish, English, Japan?, Serbian and finally a Turk. I was siting at the back of her seat (Her name is Ezgi), chatting with one of the Spanish guys and when her Serbian friend heard that I'm from Turkey, she warned Ezgi. It was a little bit weird and difficult to speak and understand her at first, since it had been nearly 2 weeks without hearing my native language. Bus travel was not so comfortable since the seat were just designed for Indian sizes.

After getting off the bus, I started to look for a hotel with the Spanish guys. Yogi Lodge was the one we found. We agreed on 50 Rp. per night with the guy who offered me 60 at the moment I got out of the bus, while other customers were staying for min. 100 Rp... I couldn't figure out the exact system, but I think they just look at you and make a guess in order to get you. Rooms were clean, food was ok and cheap... Although I was in a touristic spot, up to that time I had gotten the best room with the best price.

After putting my things in the hotel room, I met with Ezgi and her friend and had a dinner with them. She had been in India for more than a month, working in Jaipur for a social organization. They had been traveling for the weekend.

DAY 13
My initial plan was to visit the western temples; but I was feeling too tired and also getting a little bit bored of visiting temples and palaces, etc. permanently.
I must say I almost did nothing except having beers with my Spanish friends. We met with also other Spanish people, lots of actually. The town nearly turned into a little Spania.

DAY 14 - SPANISH VUELTA
Spanish guys had been leaving at the afternoon. We rented bicycles at the morning and directed ourselves into the rural areas. It was really nice to meet with the village people, who were very poor but at the same time so generous. I visited a primary school; lots of kids were sitting on the floor and trying to follow what the teacher was writing on the black board. Had a picture of them and took the adress of the teacher in order to send them after.



Having sent them, I was thinking what to do in the coming days. I was planning to be on the way to Varanasi on Tuesday afternoon; but still I couldn't had found the desire and the energy to visit the temples. And more importantly, one Indian military helicopter pilot, Goa, and his Swiss girlfriend, Corinna, and Austrian Viktor had the plans to visit the Panna National Park on Wednesday. It was the time to see some tigers, crocodiles.


DAY 15
At last I visited the western and eastern temples, as if it was my duty as a travel guide.

KHAJURAHO TEMPLES
During 10th and 14th 85 temples, on which you might see Kamasutra sculptures, were built in the area. The area has never been an important place, before and after the temples. Now 24 temples are standing.

Not a certain figure, but it's been said that around 84 figures of different Kamasutra positions are hidden on the walls of the temples (mostly western temples).
You may see the ones I found in my pictures, for over 18 age:).

DAY 16
Early in the morning we started our short-time travel to the park. We had to be there around 06:00 am in order to see the tigers since they were leaving the park roads after sunrise and going up to the hills to chill. I was excited; this was my first little safari tour.

Well, total failure:) No tigers, no crocodiles... Just some elephants, and deers, and bucks... Anyway it was enjoyable to stand on the jeep and look for the wild animals. I hope next time!



After our little safari had finished, Goa, Corinna and I kept on our way to Panna (on the way to Varanasi) to stay in a hotel, which was for military and governmental officals. Corinna and I acted as paragliding instructors, looking for a convenient place around the area for Navy, in order to pay less for the rooms.

Panna is a middle-size town, set around a lake. Not-touristic I can easily say; but our facility had a lake-view from the hill, it was set on. Calm and peaceful... Me and my friends had a lot in common; talked for long hours and shared our countries and thoughts. Especially the things about India, I learned from Goa, had given a rise to my doubts related to India; whether she had lost some of its characterictics that make her unique. India have been and is clearly changing as in most part of the world.

DAY 17
Up to 02:00 PM, we had just sat in the garden of the facility and talked. Then moved on our way to Satna, which would be the place for us to separate from each other. They were going to Mumbai and I was to Varanasi.

The good-bye was too sudden and insufficient. They realized the bus stop, they should got off, at the last minute. We were looking at each other, as if we're sorry for not to say good-bye as we wanted.

Once again I was alone on the road. After a 1 hour trip to a town called Rewa from Satna, I finally jumped in my bus carrying to Varanasi.

Orchha - The Ghost City

DAY 10/11, 11/12.10.07

DAY 10
This great town was not in my plans as I said before. I was on my way to Khajuraho from Agra; I had to stop in Jhansi (the most untouristic place I've seen in India up to now) and catch a bus. I had read about Orchha, but wasn't sure whether it would worth or not. On the train to Jhansi, I thought "Why not" since it was just 18km away from Jhansi.

About 04:00 AM I was in Jhansi train station and agreed with a autorickshaw for 30 Rp. in order to go to bus station. It was difficult to get along with the people there since except the drivers of rickshaws, noone, even the officials in the station, could not speak in English. While trying to refuse rickshaw drivers' offers to drive me to Orchha for 100 Rp., finally I met with two medial students. They helped me to find a tempo (a little bigger than autorickshaw, which can carry 12 people:)) and agreed with the driver for 20 Rp (10 for me + 10 for my backpack).

The previous day in Agra and the train trip made me exhausted, I decided to have a rest and try to get informed about the town as usual. By the time I arrived, I knew I had given a good decision.

ORCHHA
I was surprised when I had a small walk around the town since once the capital of the Bundelas, it is now just a few unkept, dusty streets and buildings. BUT within a well preserved temples&palaces and a great natural surrounding, including Betwa River (rafting and swimming seems to be possible). I thought that it would be great to visit the temples and palaces and to shoot them at sunrise&sunset.



DAY 11
I woke up early in the morning and was anxious to picture the buildings as soon as possible during the sunrise. I walked to the east of the town, to a bridge over Betwa River connecting the town to Tikamgarh road. Men were bathing and women were washing their clothes in the river. Lovely it was, but definitely not even close to the things I would see and feel in the next hour.

I continued my way to the Cenotaphs of Orchha's rulers, lived during 17th and 18th centuries. The sunrise had started to show effects on the walls, the river, the hills and trees lying at the back of the cenotaphs. I was confused; shooting everything I saw in my viewfinder. Turning west, east, north, south...I had to be quick, shouldn't miss the sunrise; but how? I thought all the other things in and outside the town.

The tension was rising, increased the speed of my steps as if someone was following me. I was trying to describe the things I was seeing. Was I really aware of what I was confronted with? I hadn't prepared myself for this.

Some guys, playing cricket, helped me to calm a little bit. I decided to split my visit into two days. Had decided to have a breakfast; it should have helped me to calm, to think, to organize my days in Orchha.

I went to a luxury hotel's restaurant, right in the middle of some Mahals, camel stables and Lhana Hammam. I was still breathing hardly, when I ordered my meal. Terrified I was. Where I was? Why was I feeling all this things? Words, sentences, full pages were echoing in my mind; trying to give some meaning to this madness. Yes, this should be the way to catch my gasp. I had to define that last hour.

For nearly half an hour I was in the restaurant. My meal had already finished and still I couldn't recover myself. This should be over, it was obvious that I couldn't continue on my discovery. Had to go to my hotel, my small room; should close my eyes against all the things I was seeing.

I could barely hear the words of the town's people on my to the hotel, but couldn't understand them. I was looking at my way and calculating the minutes ahead of me.

At last I was in my room. I lied down my bed. The sun was draining inside, carrying the words of the temples inside. They were calling me. I put my headphone of my i-Pod and turn on 'Fujiya Miyagi'. First I had release the energy in me. After a while the terror turned into joy; now was the time for some heavy 'Sigor Ros'. I was getting better. Closed my eyes and finally found the answer.

I had entered into a new world, passed the gateway; before I knew it.

...........

I was okey, when I woke up at noon. Ready to visit the temples and palaces. At the rest of my day I shoot pictures, sat down in a cafe in the middle of the market and talked with my German friend,Rick.


I

Orchha Days

DAY 12 - 12.10.07

Hi everyone,

Due to the dial-up connection in Orchha, it's taking me hours to upload the photos and to update my blog. I have to ask from you to wait for a while. I'm hoping to solve this problem Khajuraho: my plan is to be there tomorrow later in the evening.

I have to say that my Orchha days were wonderful. Lots of good photos and stories are waiting for you.

Bye,

From Dawn Till Dusk - Taj Mahal

DAY 10 - 10.10.07

Today was really exhausting as I woke up around 04:30 AM to shoot Taj Mahal during dawn. I went to the roof of Shanti Lodge Hotel, surely the best place to wiew Taj Mahal.

.........

Taj Mahal
The greatest monument of the history was started to be built, when the second wife of Emporer Shah Jahan -Mumtaz Mahal- had died in year 1631. The devastated emporer had started to built the monument right after and from all over the country (and some countries near India) marbles and precious stones ( which had been placed in the marbles) were ordered. The actual name of the monument is Mumtaj Mahal, since there's no 'z' in Indian alphabet and through the years it turned into Taj Mahal. It took more than 20 years to complete the construction as it had been completed in 1653.

Entry to the area is through 30m red sandstone gateway, on which verses from Koran is written. Passing through the gateway, a huge classical Mughal garden greets you. Taj Mahal itself stands on a raised marble platform, which clearly increases its glory. At both sides stands symetric buildings: the west is a museum where Agra's muslims gathers still and the east is supposed to be built for accommodation for travellers during those times.

Unfortunately, the monument is said to be badly influenced by pollution. That's why after 1994, new industrial developments were banned in Agra. The traffic has been strictly controlled around Taj Mahal and only pollution free rickshaws or vehicles can now pass certain control points.

One important thing I'd like to mention is during full moon times for 5 days (+ before and after 2 days),Taj Mahal is open for the visitors. BUT you should make reservation before in order to get your place in only 400 people/day. I'm sure that it's worth to view the monument during full moon.

.........

After sunset my visit to Taj Mahal finished. It had been a great experience and I was feeling sad when I was walking outside the area, since for long times my days would start knowing that the monument would not be right at the corner.

I went to my hotel and packed my things in order to see Khajuraho. Luckily, India's surprises had not finished and on my way to the train station I was companied with a small festival/show around Taj Mahal. I asked lots of people but no satisfying answer I got about the fest.

That's it for today. Now I'm in a small town called 'Orchha'; I will try to tell tomorrow how I got here, because the internet connection is not so good here and I'm still trying to upload the pictures. Hopefully, all the process will be finished tomorrow.

See you,

From Ajmer to Agra

Hi everybody,

At last I could have left Pushkar and came to Agra after a small visit to Ajmer. There's not much thing to tell about Ajmer. I had no time to see every touristic place. Only Jain Red Temple, in which golden models depicting the Jain concept of the ancient world are in it. I have to say they were fascinating. I will probably upload the photos tomorrow after shooting Taj Mahal - Don't expect to much by the way, cause the windows of the hall was closed.

As I mentioned about Agra, I'd like to say few words. After seeing Jaipur, this city (around 1,5 mio pop.) is seemed to me very friendly. Especially, around Taj Mahal there are lots of gardens and the people are really much more kind and helpful. I'm staying in a family's guest house (Friends Paying Guest House - near eastern gate of Taj Mahal) and Vicar (Father) and his 9 year old son, Hari, are so friendly. To ask people on the road about directions is just enough to be asked whether they can drop you.

I'll spare all my time to Taj Mahal tomorrow for photographing. I have never seen such a heroic building up to now; just seeing it from a few kms away makes me get very excited.

Hope to see you tomorrow,

Pushkar - Hand of Lotus

I really don't know where to begin. I was planning to stay in this lovely town, set around a holy lake, for 2-3 days. Now this is my 5th day and I don't know how to leave here.

I've simply lost myself in Pushkar. The outside world has lost its meaning and seems to be much much far away from me. Don't think it's just me who thinks this way: the people I came with from Jaipur are also still staying in the town, even some of them will be returning in their country in a week and they had plans which includes visiting other places also before turning back to home. We just cannot find the exit:)

Let me tell a little bit of Pushkar. It's a small (around 14.000 pop.), desert-edged town, in which 400-500 temples are. It's said to have appeared when Brahma dropped a lotus flower on earth. Altough the town is just 11km far away from Ajmer, which mostly Muslims live, it's one of Hindu's most important holy places and has one of few Brahma temple (only one in India) inside.

With it's friendly, touristic and holy atmosphere, it's why most people comes in India and what they expect from her. You may sit in a cafe drinking a lemon gingered honey tea with a monkey top of you eating fruits or walk around the lake and watch Indian people bathing in the holy lake.

Altough very touristic place it is (makes shopping a little bit costly compared with other cities and towns of India), it's so easy to find cheap, clean and nice-view (lake or mountains) hotel even in this season. I'm staying in Diamond Hotel, which costs me 80 Rp. per day (2$). You may find Israelian, Chinese, Thai, Mexican dishes in addition to Indian cuisine (max. 80 Rp. per meal). Not to need to say they're delicious. Note that only vegetarian food avaliable due to their religious rule (no-alcoholic also).

I have lots of places as for my favourites, but just want to mention two of them: Sunset Cafe and Savitri Temple. The first one as the name implies has a great view of the town during sunset with sometimes local music show. And the second one is a small temple set up the hill, which you can see the town and areas reserved for Camel Fair (one in every year during October-November).

For your konwledge, you may find anything in Pushkar (lots of Internet Cafe_Royal Cyber Space/10 Rp. per hour).

I had really shoot nice photos, you may find them through the link given at the left.

The next stop will be Agra (try to have a small visit to Ajmer), the city of Taj Mahal, I just need to find the exit:)

For the time being bye bye,

Photos uploaded

You may find a link at the left of the page to see my photos in flickr.com. I'm still working on organizing them and giving some descriptions attached to the photos. If you like you may look some of my Jaipur photos right now.

In a few hours, I will be on way to Pushkar. Since it's a small town, you may not hear from me for a while.

Life in Jaipur

After spending two days ( Pushkar is delayed right now, probably I will stay one night there ) in the Pink City, I think I can share some of my observations and judgements.

TRAFFIC
It's a good way to defy death for pedestrians:) At the top of the food chain motor vehicles (bus, car, etc.) and goes down as autorikshaw, rickshaw and pedestrians. You may hear a hundred of horn sounds in a few seconds, I actually cannot figure what people understand from them and select the one that's related with him\her. Sometimes I just jump to the side of the road and when I look there was no vehicle around me:)

One tip to be away from rikshaw's insists as much as possible, walk on the side that the traffic runs in the oppsite way. It decreases the times by half.

PEOPLE
If someone, standing on your way and doing nothing, starts to talk with you, asks where you're from; probably the next step will be persuading you to have a tea together ( may also invite you to his home and office ) and he'll try to convince you to make a business. The business, the most possible, will be gem and jewelry.

Yesterday, in my first hours I was invited by a man, after taking me to his internet cafe, to his home in order to ask me some questions about Turkey ( he was studying! ). We sat in his balcony and talk, then come his friends and after little chat we went to their office in the Old City. The conversation slowly turns into making business: due to the tax policy, they're trying to find honest people who'll be seen on papers as touristic buyers of huge amount of jewelry. The begining profit will be around 10.000 euro for the first time and will rise up to 40.000 euro. He even showed some copies of foreigners' passports ( written also some monetary details beside ) whom they work with before. Anyway of course money is not so easily earned, also I remembered a page in Lonely Planet heading Gem. After I seperated from them, I looked at that page and it was all over there. Having this and other small experiences make me easily say that no good Indian starts talking with you suddenly and try to make a conversation, if he does not want to cheat you or try to have free tea/meal.

Other than this kind of people, they're polite and helpful. So nothing is different from rest of the world ln this sense. Plus English is very well known by everybody, so it's easy to communicate and try to find your way.

FOOD
Absolutely delicious. Similar to our kitchen at basis, but very nice applications and new things as well.

No problem up to now; yes it's true that generally I tried to select the good looking ones, but it's obvious that there's nothing to worry about. It's also true for the general condition of the city as no flies, rats, etc. invasion come true.
The summer season might be a little bit thougher, but no need to worry.

Now the internet cafe is closing, I will try to upload the pictures later.

Bye,

Desert into Towers

Hello everyone,

After a one day visit to Dubai and Sharjah, I have landed on Jaipur, India.

I must say I could not find any interesting thing in Sharjah, even in Dubai. Lots of glorious towers rises up to the sky, but that's all. The old part of Dubai does also gives nothing. If you're not interested in shopping or do not have a business set up, there's nothing for you.

The pluses of the visit were two Italian (maybe meet with them in Kolkata), one Brazilian and one guy from Sri Lanka. Good for one day:)

Today, I'll have a small tour in the city, read and rest a bit. And tomorrow will go to Pushkar ( small town around a holy lake ) early in the morning and comeback during the day.

See you,