GOA

I wake up around 8:00 AM in the bus, covered by my sleeping bag. We were on a narrow road, driving in a tropical forest. Cocunut trees were everywhere; sun was trying to show its face between their leafs. I enjoyed the wiew for a few minutes, before rolling my sleeping bag and checking my backback, placed near the driver.

I had thought that we had already entered the state, but the border signboards corrected me. I knew that I was in the right place, at the right time for me; as we continued inside the forest, moving forward to the beaches.

1 hour had neraly passsed, but I had no idea where we are and whether I should drop in somewhere before the last stop, Panjim, when the first big town had seen; didn't want to ask anybody. I was too lazy; I had lots time to decide what to do and to find a place for the night.

PANJIM

The capital state of Goa and probably the smallest and less populated one: around 100.000 people. Like other big towns in the state, Panjim is also not on the beach, but set at the mouth of a big river, Mandovi. It's a small, cute Portugese town; it was actually until 1961.

Although it was the peak season, from Christmas to New Year, the narrow streets are quite, the main roads are not busy. Houses were decorated with Christmas' garnishments. Shops, full of beers, wine, whiskey, rum. etc, are everywhere. BUT you don't see too many bars, and when you see one you don't see too many people in the bar.

I spent one night in Panjim. If you don't have any specific reason, I think it's enough. Actually you don't have to stay also; because at the north side of Goa, the most distant beach, Arambol, is just 1 hour (by bus) away or 30 min. (by motorbike) away from Panjim. So you can easily visit the old and big towns of the state by a motorbike, which you can easily rent from the beaches for 100-200 Rp./day.

ARAMBOL BEACH

It's said to be one of the beaches, which could still be considered as quite, cheap and away from the package tourists and noisy clubs. Early in the next morning, I got in the bus and went to the beach. I knew that during this season, it would be hard to find a cheap and nice place; decided to step out of the bus before coming to the centre and walked inside the forest towards the beach. A few place answered 'No, we are full', but in the end I found Hotel Leena in the middle of the forest, just 100 meters away from the Arabian sea. I didn't find a room; but I found a roof to sleep:) It was the perfect place for sleeping outside (50 Rp./night). All I need was a matress, which the family supplied one. Mama, Baby, Leena, Nishan and his mother and father... Mama is the grandmother, a very sweet old lady, reminded me my grandmother during the times she brought me a glass of banana milkshake, walking slowly and holding the glass carefully.

After I organize myself as deciding which stuffs should stay in the backpack that would stay inside the house and which should come with me to the roof; I sat down in the garden place of the hotel and I realized that this was it. I found the place I was looking for the last 10 days, a place where I can just sit and enjoy where I'm and enjoy what I'm doing.

All sorts of people were in the hotel: young Israelians, looking for party, alcohol and drugs; outgoing Britains; middle aged Italians who had already visited Goa more than few times, had seen it before 20-30 years ago, just looking for place to relax and remember the old memories, Russians who never gave up to look for hot seas.

In my first 3 nights very active I was, although I hadn't intented to; just said 'Yes' to every offer. Played an Israelian card game and got drunk with Israelians with the local branded rum at the first night. Invited by the Britains, I went to a restaurant&bar, which organized a jam session, in the centre at the 2nd night. A Montana, USA, girl performed a oriental dance show; a Hungarian stand up comedian made us laugh with his cheap jokes; a bold middle-age guy read a section from his latest book; and Uncle Johhny ended the night after turning the crowd crazy with his 'Live Life' song at the end:) Peace, love, f**k Bush, enjoy were the themes of the night. AND 3rd night, the new year evening, with the Britains again, I went to a Goan party in a club on Anjuna beach. Don't expect the old Goan parties; now it's restricted to have a loud music after 10:00 PM in Goa and the state is more a touristic holiday place more than an isolated Hippi and party place nowadays. Luckily, more northern and southern beaches are still preserved, or are not transformed in a way. I enjoyed the night and the next morning very much, although I didn't keep in step with phychedelic trance and didn't dance. But I watched the Indian young adults, came from Mumbai, and Europeans, dancing, smoking joints, taking excasty, acids, etc. Funny show it was:)

Later my days generally passed quite and calm. I enjoyed the wide range of Goan and world cuisine with delicious cakes. It's so easy to decide to stay here for a couple of months. I could have done, but I had to move as if I would go to south Asia and I had to see my old friend Francoise and his Guru, Amma, in Kerala state, in Amma's Ashram. So I moved on the 6th January and started my 24 hour bus trip to Fort Cochin.

See you there,