THRISSUR

Standing 75 km northeast of Cochin, Thrissur is a good place to see some temple festivals and local art performances of schools during your 1-2 day visit (not more). The main reason that brought me here was the fact that Cochin Airport was standing in the middle of Thrissur-Cochin road; and surely there was no point in visiting Cochin for the 3rd time.

The city has an interesting characteristic as it's built around a park area, in which the Hindu-only Vadakkunathan Kshetram Temple has been placed right in the centre, and dozens of road goes out of the main round road as if they're the sunbeams of a painting drawn by a primary school kid. You might be surprised when you see the temples' architectural design like me since they are more similar to Chinese/Japanese designs than the Hindu ones.

The day I arrived was also the last day of Thypooya Maholsavam festival, which was celebrated in Sree Maheswara Temple in Koorkancherry village with a kavadiyattam (a colourful ritual art, is a votive offering to Sree Subramanya) procession where hundreds of kavadis (tall, colorful ornate structures) were carried by people and a musical cerenomy with the temple's elephants was performed later. Unfortunately I missed the former one.



The next day, my last day in India, I watched a 1982 local movie in the 4th International Thrissur Cinema Festival, which had been produced to criticise the unfair traditions the women had to follow.

Late in the afternoon I was on my way to Cochin Airport to fly Singapore.

MYSORE

I thanked the young receptionist for all his help during my four day stay in Mysore and left the hotel. After then, I met with the two old local guy, who stood me a chai(tea) on the previous evening. They wished me a warm 'Good luck!' for the next days of my travel. I stopped by the local restaurant, where I had enjoyed almost all my meals during my visit; and waited for a few minutes for the young marketing executives of GlaxoSmithKline, whom I had met in the same place and had talked for long hours, in order to say good-bye. Unfortunately their meeting seemed to be not ended. I thanked the owner of the restaurant and all his crew for the delicious food they had served me, and more importantly for the friendly care I had received.

I walked for a few minutes, to Hotel Shilpashri Bar&Restaurant, in order to have a beer on its terrace before getting into the Thrissur bus. I was going back to Kerala, to a town near to Cochin, to wait for my Singapore flight. When the 650 ml Kingfisher came on the table, it was nearly dark. Beer was cold, at the right temperature as I liked. After I had my first sup, I realized that the full moon was rising at the back of an old building, just in the direction I was sitting and looking at as if I had been waiting for it. I put a big smile on my face. It was the best full moon I had in the last four months. I wasn't in a small village, set around a lake; I wasn't up on the Himalayas and I wasn't lying on the beaches of Goa. But this city of Karnataka state had hosted me very well for the last 4 days: a home with a terrace:), a local restaurant where I met lots of good people, a beautiful Sunday evening in the highlighted ground of Maharaja's Palace... Added with the positive finalization of my Southeast Asia travel plans. Just what I had needed, Mysore gave me.


Hotel Ghayathri


Maharaja's Palace

I got drunk by all these thoughts, by the cold beer I had and by the fact that I would be flying to Singapore on the 24th of January without having any kind of information and plan for the days ahead of me. I had to be in Cochin Airport at 22:00 on January 24; that was the only thing I knew, that was all I needed to know.

KANYAKUMARI

It's southest point of India, close 8th parallel. A small town, in which you may watch the sun rising over Bay of Bengal and setting over Arabian Sea. It was also one of the places my Indian friend Joe had recommended me before we seperated in Satna.



The night I arrived at the town, I learned that there was a two day religious holiday, worshipping the sun or something like that, starting two days later. And the population of the town increased from 30.000 to 200.000 in those two day period.
Thousands of men, dressed in black, came from other parts of Tamil Nadu state with their identical grey jeeps; plus women and children... I'm not disturbed by the way; the reason I left the town was that I had decided to fly to Singapore from Cochin on 24th Jan, almost 1 week later, and start my Souteast Asia tour. And I needed a place, close to Cochin, where I can easily and cheaply arrange the final details of the trip like flight tickets, visa requirements, etc.



After having two windy days in Kanyakumari, I left the town early in the morning in order to arrive Cochin late in the afternoon.

The town definitely worth to visit for a few days. Lots clean and cheap hotels you can find. The hottest spot is in the South Car St., at the left side, where you can eat delicious fish with a cost of just 20-30 Rp.

KERALA

The trip to Cochin in Kerala state had required a very long bus travel: one night to Mangalore following the coast route of Karnataka state, from there to Kasaragod, then to Kannur, to Calicut and finally to Cochin. 5 buses and 24 hours of travelling. I must say I really got used to this long bus rides, 7-8 hours long ones are like piece of cake for me right now:)

Kerala is famous with its backwaters. This southwest state of India consists of lots of rivers, canals, lakes and lagoons, through which you may change your city by a boat trip and during which you may observe the village life of the fishermen families' lifes. This is especially true at the south of Cochin. The state also holds the title of having the highest literacy rate in India (around 90%), which shows itself easily when you see thousands of little boys and girls on their way to the schools in their cute uniforms.


COCHIN

We can say that it stands in the middle of Kerala coast. It consists of mainland Ernakulam; a few islands which are mainly used for harbour facilities; Fort Cochin and Mattencherry on the southern peninsula and Vypeen Island at the north side of Fort Cochin, through which you can arrive the very ordinary Cherai Beach by bus.

Fort Cochin is the best place in the area to stay for a few days. Full of Catholic schools, the oldest church in India (dated back to 16th century), 700 years old Chinese nets, colonial buildings, modern villas and calm streets; all are the factors that made the region a nice place to relax. BUT do not expect cheap prices like in the North India, especially in high season (Dec-Feb)! The best and cheapest options are dozens of `Home Stays`, in which you feel like you're sleeping at your home in your bedroom. As the house gets good, the price increase. Min. 250 Rp./night you should expect in the high season.



Ernakulam, the mainland, is a place where you may find anything you like, including lots of international brands and cheap Chinese electronic products. In fact when you look at the area from Fort Cochin, the modern white buildings make you forget that you're in India. It's a litle bit cheaper to stay here and much more cheaper in terms of eating. It's only 2,5 Rp. and 15 min. to cross the harbour by ferry from Ernakulam to Fort Cochin.

A very hot spot I should definitely give is "Eat N' Pack" fast food restaurant in Fort Cochin. You should especially taste Shwarma (like Turkish chicken doner) and tandoori chicken with porotha. I didn't try anywhere else for dinner during my time:) It's very cheap also: Shwarma - 22 Rp. and tandoori chicken - 30 Rp.

I stayed for 3 nights and moved to south in order to have my relaxing backwater trip.

ALLEPPEY

Strange town it was: the first night I arrived, I felt like I was in a big open market: colorful streets full of jewellery, umbrella, textile, bakery shops and hotels ( At south, 'Hotel' is the term used for 'Restaurant'. They are generally cheap and good places to eat Indian food ).

The fact that it's mostly the starting point of backwater trips attracts the local and foreign tourists. When I learned that I could go to Amma's Ashram from here by a 6 hour boat trip and continue to Kollam anytime I want by the same boat, I decided to take my ticket as soon as I arrived.

Early in the next morning, I walked to the beach following the south canal. It was surprising to see the locals, jogging and streching in their sport uniforms. Outside the central part of the beach, that looks at the main streets of Allepey, you'll see dozens of small and big fishing boats and the houses of fishermen in poor condition. This is true for other towns at the coast side also, since Indian people generally do not have habit of wearing swimming suits and swimming. So don't expect beach resorts or towns everywhere.



Anyway, at 10:30 AM the boat trip stated from the north canal. At first you'll be thrilled by the view if you haven't been in such a environment before. Then you'll get used to it and start reading your book and listening your music or chatting with your friends.



After eating our thalis, served on banana leafs, in a restaurant on the way, we arrived at the ashram around 04:00 PM. Nearly 10 western faces, including me, got out of the boat and walked inside the ashram.

AMMA'S ASHRAM

If you had read my Lumbini, Nepal entry; you may remember what I'd heard from Francoise about Amma and his experience with her. I'll not give any information about her and what she's been doing for long years. You can click the link and read from the official site.

What I'll say is do not expect a simple facility with some monks and devotees. Trying to fulfill the demand, the area of the Ashram got bigger and bigger throughout the years and now there are 10-20 storey apartments around the temple, built for accomodation of 2.000 western and (probably) more local people. Indian and western cafes, internet access, one swimming pool, even an ATM just outside the Ashram and some small shops... You may stay by giving 150 Rp. per day, which includes 3 basic Indian meals.

After I settled in my room, shared with an American, I tried to find Francoise. Luckily he was the one who found me. I hadn't had the chance to mail him and actually didn't expect him to have the access. I'm not sure about the timing, but I think after I chated a little with Francoise I received my embrace from Amma. I just wanted to meet with her, to be face to face actually; but it was a short meeting without an eye contact and a dialogue. Thousands of people get in the queue everyday to be embraced by her and there's a well working organization around her in order to keep her fit and undisturbed while giving everyone their hug. She embraced me and say few words, about which I have no idea; and that was it! Some people told me that they later realized (or interpreted, let's say) what she had said to them; some people told they didn't feel anything in their first meetings, but 2nd and 3rd were more something, something positive. Who knows?

I didn't let myself to stay in the Ashram more than one day and look for a glimpse of spiritualism since Southeast Asia visit had been becoming more than a possibility and I had to move as if I would fly to Thailand or Singapore before the end of January.

KOLLAM

It was hard to find a reasonable hotel room as in Alleppey. During this season more than foreigners, there are lots of local families visiting the beauties of South India. When I found a very good one, I decided to stay for two nights in Kollam and visit Trivandrum, the next destination, during daytime by arriving there early in the morning after a just 2 hour bus trip.

The middle-sized cities in Kerala are good places to use as a hub. They're close to each other, have cheap and fast internet access, bookstores, good food, etc. I cancelled my village boat trip plan: 9 hour experience between Alleppey and Kollam was enough for the time and I had to work on the feasability of Southeast Asia tour. Generally my time passed in front of the computer except short walks to the Kollam beach, which is not convenient for swimming due to strong rips.

TRIVANDRUM

Similar characteristics it has as the previous towns except it's built on seven hills and not near the Arabian Sea or backwaters.

After I arrived at the city, I quickly checked the transportation options and timings to Kanyakumari and decided to take the 18:30 bus. Up that time I walked along the streets, logged on the internet, enjoyed fresh fruit juices and looked for small size simple speakers for my I-pod. I hate to listen music with headphones; why hadn't I thought before?


In summary, I can say that Kerala is a nice place to visit in a way; but this well developed state mostly appeals to package tourists, families and couples looking for a sweet 2-3 week holiday. Saying that any of other attractions of the state like the delicious South Indian cuisine, music&dance (esp. Kathakali) and cinema festivals during January, national parks at the east, might be just enough for you to visit here.

GOA

I wake up around 8:00 AM in the bus, covered by my sleeping bag. We were on a narrow road, driving in a tropical forest. Cocunut trees were everywhere; sun was trying to show its face between their leafs. I enjoyed the wiew for a few minutes, before rolling my sleeping bag and checking my backback, placed near the driver.

I had thought that we had already entered the state, but the border signboards corrected me. I knew that I was in the right place, at the right time for me; as we continued inside the forest, moving forward to the beaches.

1 hour had neraly passsed, but I had no idea where we are and whether I should drop in somewhere before the last stop, Panjim, when the first big town had seen; didn't want to ask anybody. I was too lazy; I had lots time to decide what to do and to find a place for the night.

PANJIM

The capital state of Goa and probably the smallest and less populated one: around 100.000 people. Like other big towns in the state, Panjim is also not on the beach, but set at the mouth of a big river, Mandovi. It's a small, cute Portugese town; it was actually until 1961.

Although it was the peak season, from Christmas to New Year, the narrow streets are quite, the main roads are not busy. Houses were decorated with Christmas' garnishments. Shops, full of beers, wine, whiskey, rum. etc, are everywhere. BUT you don't see too many bars, and when you see one you don't see too many people in the bar.

I spent one night in Panjim. If you don't have any specific reason, I think it's enough. Actually you don't have to stay also; because at the north side of Goa, the most distant beach, Arambol, is just 1 hour (by bus) away or 30 min. (by motorbike) away from Panjim. So you can easily visit the old and big towns of the state by a motorbike, which you can easily rent from the beaches for 100-200 Rp./day.

ARAMBOL BEACH

It's said to be one of the beaches, which could still be considered as quite, cheap and away from the package tourists and noisy clubs. Early in the next morning, I got in the bus and went to the beach. I knew that during this season, it would be hard to find a cheap and nice place; decided to step out of the bus before coming to the centre and walked inside the forest towards the beach. A few place answered 'No, we are full', but in the end I found Hotel Leena in the middle of the forest, just 100 meters away from the Arabian sea. I didn't find a room; but I found a roof to sleep:) It was the perfect place for sleeping outside (50 Rp./night). All I need was a matress, which the family supplied one. Mama, Baby, Leena, Nishan and his mother and father... Mama is the grandmother, a very sweet old lady, reminded me my grandmother during the times she brought me a glass of banana milkshake, walking slowly and holding the glass carefully.

After I organize myself as deciding which stuffs should stay in the backpack that would stay inside the house and which should come with me to the roof; I sat down in the garden place of the hotel and I realized that this was it. I found the place I was looking for the last 10 days, a place where I can just sit and enjoy where I'm and enjoy what I'm doing.

All sorts of people were in the hotel: young Israelians, looking for party, alcohol and drugs; outgoing Britains; middle aged Italians who had already visited Goa more than few times, had seen it before 20-30 years ago, just looking for place to relax and remember the old memories, Russians who never gave up to look for hot seas.

In my first 3 nights very active I was, although I hadn't intented to; just said 'Yes' to every offer. Played an Israelian card game and got drunk with Israelians with the local branded rum at the first night. Invited by the Britains, I went to a restaurant&bar, which organized a jam session, in the centre at the 2nd night. A Montana, USA, girl performed a oriental dance show; a Hungarian stand up comedian made us laugh with his cheap jokes; a bold middle-age guy read a section from his latest book; and Uncle Johhny ended the night after turning the crowd crazy with his 'Live Life' song at the end:) Peace, love, f**k Bush, enjoy were the themes of the night. AND 3rd night, the new year evening, with the Britains again, I went to a Goan party in a club on Anjuna beach. Don't expect the old Goan parties; now it's restricted to have a loud music after 10:00 PM in Goa and the state is more a touristic holiday place more than an isolated Hippi and party place nowadays. Luckily, more northern and southern beaches are still preserved, or are not transformed in a way. I enjoyed the night and the next morning very much, although I didn't keep in step with phychedelic trance and didn't dance. But I watched the Indian young adults, came from Mumbai, and Europeans, dancing, smoking joints, taking excasty, acids, etc. Funny show it was:)

Later my days generally passed quite and calm. I enjoyed the wide range of Goan and world cuisine with delicious cakes. It's so easy to decide to stay here for a couple of months. I could have done, but I had to move as if I would go to south Asia and I had to see my old friend Francoise and his Guru, Amma, in Kerala state, in Amma's Ashram. So I moved on the 6th January and started my 24 hour bus trip to Fort Cochin.

See you there,