Kerala is famous with its backwaters. This southwest state of India consists of lots of rivers, canals, lakes and lagoons, through which you may change your city by a boat trip and during which you may observe the village life of the fishermen families' lifes. This is especially true at the south of Cochin. The state also holds the title of having the highest literacy rate in India (around 90%), which shows itself easily when you see thousands of little boys and girls on their way to the schools in their cute uniforms.
COCHIN
We can say that it stands in the middle of Kerala coast. It consists of mainland Ernakulam; a few islands which are mainly used for harbour facilities; Fort Cochin and Mattencherry on the southern peninsula and Vypeen Island at the north side of Fort Cochin, through which you can arrive the very ordinary Cherai Beach by bus.
Fort Cochin is the best place in the area to stay for a few days. Full of Catholic schools, the oldest church in India (dated back to 16th century), 700 years old Chinese nets, colonial buildings, modern villas and calm streets; all are the factors that made the region a nice place to relax. BUT do not expect cheap prices like in the North India, especially in high season (Dec-Feb)! The best and cheapest options are dozens of `Home Stays`, in which you feel like you're sleeping at your home in your bedroom. As the house gets good, the price increase. Min. 250 Rp./night you should expect in the high season.
Ernakulam, the mainland, is a place where you may find anything you like, including lots of international brands and cheap Chinese electronic products. In fact when you look at the area from Fort Cochin, the modern white buildings make you forget that you're in India. It's a litle bit cheaper to stay here and much more cheaper in terms of eating. It's only 2,5 Rp. and 15 min. to cross the harbour by ferry from Ernakulam to Fort Cochin.
A very hot spot I should definitely give is "Eat N' Pack" fast food restaurant in Fort Cochin. You should especially taste Shwarma (like Turkish chicken doner) and tandoori chicken with porotha. I didn't try anywhere else for dinner during my time:) It's very cheap also: Shwarma - 22 Rp. and tandoori chicken - 30 Rp.
I stayed for 3 nights and moved to south in order to have my relaxing backwater trip.
ALLEPPEY
Strange town it was: the first night I arrived, I felt like I was in a big open market: colorful streets full of jewellery, umbrella, textile, bakery shops and hotels ( At south, 'Hotel' is the term used for 'Restaurant'. They are generally cheap and good places to eat Indian food ).
The fact that it's mostly the starting point of backwater trips attracts the local and foreign tourists. When I learned that I could go to Amma's Ashram from here by a 6 hour boat trip and continue to Kollam anytime I want by the same boat, I decided to take my ticket as soon as I arrived.
Early in the next morning, I walked to the beach following the south canal. It was surprising to see the locals, jogging and streching in their sport uniforms. Outside the central part of the beach, that looks at the main streets of Allepey, you'll see dozens of small and big fishing boats and the houses of fishermen in poor condition. This is true for other towns at the coast side also, since Indian people generally do not have habit of wearing swimming suits and swimming. So don't expect beach resorts or towns everywhere.
Anyway, at 10:30 AM the boat trip stated from the north canal. At first you'll be thrilled by the view if you haven't been in such a environment before. Then you'll get used to it and start reading your book and listening your music or chatting with your friends.
After eating our thalis, served on banana leafs, in a restaurant on the way, we arrived at the ashram around 04:00 PM. Nearly 10 western faces, including me, got out of the boat and walked inside the ashram.
AMMA'S ASHRAM
If you had read my Lumbini, Nepal entry; you may remember what I'd heard from Francoise about Amma and his experience with her. I'll not give any information about her and what she's been doing for long years. You can click the link and read from the official site.
What I'll say is do not expect a simple facility with some monks and devotees. Trying to fulfill the demand, the area of the Ashram got bigger and bigger throughout the years and now there are 10-20 storey apartments around the temple, built for accomodation of 2.000 western and (probably) more local people. Indian and western cafes, internet access, one swimming pool, even an ATM just outside the Ashram and some small shops... You may stay by giving 150 Rp. per day, which includes 3 basic Indian meals.
After I settled in my room, shared with an American, I tried to find Francoise. Luckily he was the one who found me. I hadn't had the chance to mail him and actually didn't expect him to have the access. I'm not sure about the timing, but I think after I chated a little with Francoise I received my embrace from Amma. I just wanted to meet with her, to be face to face actually; but it was a short meeting without an eye contact and a dialogue. Thousands of people get in the queue everyday to be embraced by her and there's a well working organization around her in order to keep her fit and undisturbed while giving everyone their hug. She embraced me and say few words, about which I have no idea; and that was it! Some people told me that they later realized (or interpreted, let's say) what she had said to them; some people told they didn't feel anything in their first meetings, but 2nd and 3rd were more something, something positive. Who knows?
I didn't let myself to stay in the Ashram more than one day and look for a glimpse of spiritualism since Southeast Asia visit had been becoming more than a possibility and I had to move as if I would fly to Thailand or Singapore before the end of January.
KOLLAM
It was hard to find a reasonable hotel room as in Alleppey. During this season more than foreigners, there are lots of local families visiting the beauties of South India. When I found a very good one, I decided to stay for two nights in Kollam and visit Trivandrum, the next destination, during daytime by arriving there early in the morning after a just 2 hour bus trip.
The middle-sized cities in Kerala are good places to use as a hub. They're close to each other, have cheap and fast internet access, bookstores, good food, etc. I cancelled my village boat trip plan: 9 hour experience between Alleppey and Kollam was enough for the time and I had to work on the feasability of Southeast Asia tour. Generally my time passed in front of the computer except short walks to the Kollam beach, which is not convenient for swimming due to strong rips.
TRIVANDRUM
Similar characteristics it has as the previous towns except it's built on seven hills and not near the Arabian Sea or backwaters.
After I arrived at the city, I quickly checked the transportation options and timings to Kanyakumari and decided to take the 18:30 bus. Up that time I walked along the streets, logged on the internet, enjoyed fresh fruit juices and looked for small size simple speakers for my I-pod. I hate to listen music with headphones; why hadn't I thought before?
In summary, I can say that Kerala is a nice place to visit in a way; but this well developed state mostly appeals to package tourists, families and couples looking for a sweet 2-3 week holiday. Saying that any of other attractions of the state like the delicious South Indian cuisine, music&dance (esp. Kathakali) and cinema festivals during January, national parks at the east, might be just enough for you to visit here.
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