UDAIPUR TO GOA

It's been very hard for me to get in front of the computer and start this script, until finding this roomy and windy internet cafe in Kochin.

At the time I left Jodphur, I was a little bit sick. Actually, the last 7 days passed as I tried to recover from the flu. It had started to be very annoying and I decided to change the location and the climate: leave the windy and chilly Jodphur and travel to south. So I postponed Jailsamer visit and camel safari.

UDAIPUR

It's simply a holiday town. It has been always like that, all through the centuries. And this makes the place very artificial, makes you feel that it hasn't have a history, a culture, a feeling unique to itself. Although it seems like a nice town, which includes two lakes. I didn't want to do anything during the 3 day I spent, dind't like the town as I didn't like 'Octopussy', one of Roger Moore's 007 movies which had been mostly shooted here.

AHMEDABAD

My only aim at that moment was to travel south, down to Kerala, having a little hope of seeing Julian and Renata before they leave India. I searched for my options; just looked for the next destination on my way to south. Ahmedabad, the capital city of Gujarat state, was picked out of the bucket.

I stayed for 3 days in order to heal, after seeing a doctor and having his suggestion together with some pills. This was the only reason for 3 days visit. Other than that there was nothing to see in Ahmedabad. It's one of the producing cities of India, 'South India' would be more proper to call as today mainly the production comes from the south.

The good thing is that I recovered almost 100% with the climate, which was getting hotter and more tropical. Ahmedabad was my entry point to South India.

OMKARESHWAR



This is a small village, set around a island between two holy rivers. It's a popular destination for Hindu pilgrims and not for tourists (I learned the place from a middle aged sweet Swiss lady in Pushkar).

It could be nicer, if I had come 5(or more) years ago, when there were no boats running trough the river all day with their disturbing sounds.

I was feeling well enough to continue my way to Kerala. I stayed one night and left the place early in the next morning.

JALGAON and AJANTA CAVES

After a 3 hour bus and train travel, in between waiting in a unpleasant city for a few hours, I arrived Jalgaon at night, a northern city of Maharashtra state which includes Mumbai.

The train was, as usual, over crowded. Travelling with bus has been mostly better and more comfortable for me up to now. In the end, buses cannot exceed a certain number of people and you have a seat; but trains!!! If you're travelling in Sleeper Class, which is generally prefered by travellers due to its cheap price, and have no confirmed seat; then you most probably are in big trouble. And to have a confirmed seat in a populated route, you have to buy the ticket 1 (or more during festivals and holiday times) week ago. And that's where I have no option, but selecting a bus travel since I don't know which place is my nextination.

Anyway, Jalgaon is the most convenient place to stay in order to see Ajanta caves, which consists of 29 Buddhist cave temples and monasteries, carved in a horse shoe shaped valley and dated from 2nd century BC to 6th century AD.



I didn't enjoy my visit to the caves, which made me to skip Ellora caves, a few hours away from Ajanta, consists of Buddhist, Hindu and Jain temples and monasteries. The last 3 months was too much temple, stupa, monastery, etc. and religious. I was just thinking to find a place to chill for a while.

PUNE

Just a 4 hour visit in Pune. A big city near Mumbai, wealthy business town and the place where Osho's ashram exists.

I had no idea what to do when I arrived at Pune around 05:00 PM. I think it was the day of 27th December, just between Christmas and New Year. Goa would be definitely crowded with foreigners and locals, but still if I could find a quite beach? I could have stayed in Pune, rested and decided what to do or move to Mumbai. The young guy working in a Danish company in Mumbai, who I met in the train to Jalgaon, had told me that spending New Year evening in Mumbai is very enjoyable, especially around Colaba district. It could have given me the chance to meet with my Argentinians also since their flight was from Mumbai on 31th December. I selected the 12 hour night bus trip to Goa, was feeling fit to take another long bus ride.

JODPHUR’S MUSE

She has never wanted to be part of the royal life, has never dreamed of living in a palace and being one of the Maharanis(1); even when she was a small girl, playing in the gardens of the palace in Amber Fort. The times when her mother picked her up, held her in arms and told her that one day she would be a wife of the Mughal Emperor, live in the capital city and enjoy all the privileges of the palace life, she was nodding as if she was listening her; but she never did. Just she looked through the fence of the latticed window and searched for her future in the blue sky. It wasn’t that she would want to explore the world behind the walls; but surely there was something wrong with the one, she was living in. The borders had already been drawn and the path, she had to follow, had already been decided.

By that time, Amber Fort was the house of one of the Rajput clans, which was governed by her father. In the bigger picture, it was a state of the Mughal Empire, which had been the biggest enemy for all Rajput clans before. Her grandfather had fought against the Mughals and had opposed every incursion of them for long years. The Rajputs has always been a proud warrior caste with a strong belief of the chivalry and has lived by the ancient code of death before dishonor. But they could have never united against the enemies and has kept fighting with each other in other times. After the death of her grandfather in the battlefield, in his saffron-colored bridegroom dress, her father took his place and kept on resisting the enemy for a few years more. At last, he accepted to be a state of the Empire, with the privilege of autonomy in internal affairs.

Zafran’s father, a typical Rajput character, was just under 16, when got the news of his father’s death. He had been ordered to stay in the fort by his father before that hopeless attempt to defeat the Mughals on the desert lands of northeast Rajasthan. One day after he witnessed his mother’s act of sati(2). In both of the times, he didn’t cry, didn’t scream in anger. He had been raised as a man, who was devotedly attached to his traditions. Zafran didn’t have much time to spend with him. He had been generally away from home, as he had to join the Mughal armies with his forces, mostly consisted of the Bhils(3), in their cruises against the Marathas(4).

At the time she became a teenager, the pressure on her had already increased too much; as she had to behave in a proper way, as a member of the royal family, and had to join the palace ceremonies and formal visits to Agra, the capital city of the Mughal Empire. She hated all that rules, which she had to follow; desperately she was looking for a way out. Seeing her brothers’ building up passion for the throne everyday, she knew that once one of them would attempt to take hold of the throne during their father’s absence after killing the rivals. And then the time would come to present her to the emperor as a sign of loyalty.

It didn’t take her long to find a way to escape. On a chilly December day, when the gate of fort was kept open in order to accept the sacrificial animals and their owners inside, she found the few minutes she needed to vanish. Her mom was talking with other maharanis in the courtyard when she saw her for the last time. There was a wild disorder at the entrance of the fort as it was too crowded because of the locals, villagers, camels, horses and goats. It had been easy to pass the gate without getting noticed by the gatekeepers. The first thing she had to do was getting rid of her clothes, which gave up her royal identity. She changed her bright royal pink sari and petticoat with some old looking off white choli(5) and a beige petticoat under it, which she found inside of one of the villagers’ tents. She felt lucky, when she noticed the small caravan, which seemed to be preparing to leave the town. Quickly and quietly she stole into the last of the 3 cars, pulled by camels. Tedious few minutes she had after she covered herself with an old light brown cotton blanket. Thanks god, she didn’t have to wait too much as the caravan started to move in the southwest direction. A guy, aged around 45, was driving the front car. A young boy, probably his son, was the driver of the second and his elder sister of the third. They didn’t stop until a half hour before sunset. Outside of Ajmer, sitting around the fire, the family enjoyed their spicy vegetable thalis, cooked by the young woman. Zafran only had the chance to find some left over chapattis, after the group fell asleep.

The next day started very early. Zafran woke up to the voice of the old man, saying to his children that he wanted to arrive at Jodhpur as soon as possible since he had felt that things could get worse in Amber very soon. Zafran surely had heard about Jodphur before. It was the city of another strong Rajput clan, who has always been their biggest rival in the territory. Although there has been a pretended peace in the last couple of years, any men living in these lands knew that the situation could change easily. Only a lunch break was given that day.

Late at night, the caravan finally arrived at their home in Jodhpur. Zafran had already fallen asleep, before they entered the town. She woke up as the caravan started to climb on a stony narrow street and realized that she had to get out of the car as soon as possible. But she was too late as the cars stopped after few seconds. The young woman, probably 2-3 years older than her, noticed her when she started to unload the car. Like Zafran she had a dark long hair that covers half of her sharp-featured face. She didn't say anything; very calmly she made a gesture to tell her to keep quiet. After her father and brother went inside the house, she offered her hand to Zafran and led her to a small building, used as a barn. The calmness in her attitude had made Zafran to feel secure; she didn't hesitate to follow her, neither telling the young woman her story when she asked about it. Zafran hadn't thought what to say before, as she hadn't planned to be caught also. She had never lied before in her life also, didn't need to although lots of times she had been penalized for her behaviours. For almost an hour she talked and the young woman listened without interrupting her. "Sleep tonight here and tomorrow, before the sunrise, leave, and don't comeback after the sunset." the young woman said after Zafran told her every detail. "I'll talk to my father.” she continued and left her alone in the barn.

Zafran did exactly the same the next morning. She woke up and left the barn before sunrise. She realized that the house was set on the top of the city, just below the massive Meherangarh Fort, that grew out of a rocky ridge. She climbed a few meters up, found a place where she would not attract attention of the guards of the Fort and would not be noticed by the people passing below. As the sun rose, she saw the Blue City, lying under her. That's what people had called it for centuries. Dozens of blue buildings, mostly belonged to the upper caste –Brahmins-, surrounded by a 10 km-long wall…She sat on a big rock and cast her eye over the city. It was nearly impossible to see what was happening on the glittering streets of Jodphur, which surely made it more mysterious. She felt the peace; a peace when man feels when he realizes that he finds his place in this world. Relying on the protection of the Meherangarh Fort, of which the walls couldn't have been passed for centuries, she looked at the high clock tower in the middle of a market place and felt the joy as each minute was taking her away from the past.

As the sun set, she went down to the house as she had been told by the young woman. Tensely, she knocked the door and waited for the answer. A warm voice of the father was heard: "Please, come in." When she entered the house, she saw all the members of the family, the father, the two brothers, the young woman and her sister –probably younger than Zafran-, sitting on the floor, around the pots of hot meals. None of the family members asked her about her past. She never knew what the young woman had told them.

Few years later, the father decided to turn the house into a guesthouse for the merchants and travelers, before his older’s marriage and his all too soon death while crossing the Great That Desert during a business trip to Jailsamer. And that's how I met with this amazing woman. I had come to Jodphur to buy some spices, opium, sandalwood and copper. Late at night Zafran greeted me under the weak yellowish streetlight; the light, which seems to be put in purpose just to highlight her, when she sits on an iron bunk and views the high walls of the Fort as if she challenges her past. She glows in those moments, as the Blue City does under the desert sun.

I spent almost 10 days in this city with full of nice people; much more than I expected. And she was the only reason. I just wanted to be around her. Everyday, I witnessed how a special lady she is: the confidence in her walk, the joy in her smile, the childish attitude in her calling “Haaluuk” and the saffron in her dress and hair…

She’s a guru, and I’m her student, who had the luck to find her. As it is said: “A good guru doesn’t find her students, the students find her.”

(1)Wife of a princely ruler or a ruler in her own right
(2)Wife of Shiva; became a sati (honorable woman) by immolating herself
(3)One of main Rajasthani tribes, inhabited the southwestern part of the state and were regarded as splendid warriors
(4)Central Indian people who controlled much of India at various times and fought the Mughals and Rajputs
(5)Tight-fitting blouse

................

As you can easily guess, the above story is a fictional one. But Zafran is real. She’s waiting for you to find her in Hill View Guest House, just below the Meherangarh Fort. Let yourself know this enchanting lady in Jodphur and let her play with you.

Back to India

Completing a week in Kathmandu, Arg.s and I decided to leave Kathmandu to go back to the subcontinent; but through different ways. They were thinking to cross Sunauli border again in order to catch a train from Gorakphur to Rajasthan state and I had decided to cross Mahendranagar border by 20 hour long Nepali bus ride through West Terai region. Well, somehow our attempts to seperate from each other failed:), once again.

After a very uncomfortable and freezing ride, we arrived at the border in the morning and walked for few km.s to find a vehicle to drive us to Banbassa (Indian border town). The Maoist presence in West Terai hadn't let tourism to progress, although there are lots of recommended national parks and nice mountain landscapes in the region. The border is also not used for trade between the two countries as there's no road between the towns.

We spent a few hours in Banbassa to decide which bus we would take. Surprisingly, there are frequently departing buses that goes to the main cities in Uttaranchal, Punjab, Haryana, Uttar Pradesh and Rajasthan states; so don't worry in finding one of them. We had taken the 18 hour long Jaipur bus to go directly to Pushkar. Julian & Renata hadn't seen the town before and I needed a rest after 40 hours of traveling in a bus.

Today, we're going to Jodphur after staying 3 days in lovely Pushkar. I cannot wait to see the Great Thar Desert.

See you soon...

KATHMANDU (VALLEY)

I really don't know what to write about and how to start. After a while after travelling and writing about the places I had visited, I decided to form the texts before I sat down in front of the computer. Until Kathmandu, it had helped me to organize my thoughts and feelings before passing on you.

I enjoyed my days in Kathmandu; it wasn't because of amazing Newari architecture, delicately carved windows and doors, in and around (esp.) Patan's and Kathmandu's Durbar (Palace) Squares, or it wasn't because of meeting so many people, I met with in Pokhara and Annapurna Circuit, and it wasn't because of the wide range of restaurants, book and music shops and very colorful textile products. Yes, it's a huge valley in the middle of Himalayas that caused a dozen of civilization to set their lives on all through centuries. Yes, it's the meeting point of trekkers and travellers and merchants. And yes, it's a city which has the characteristic of a typical cosmopolitan city.



But I loved it from the first moment I stepped in Thamel, because I simply felt myself walking in Istiklal Street* once again. I saw Tarlabasi St. and Lale Iskembe (Tribe Restaurant) at the start of it, when I looked at the road seen from my table in The Yellow House**. The city had easily pulled me inside of it. After staying there for a week, I can say that it's a huge continously changing puzzle, of which every piece is so unique, but at the same time perfectly fits each other. You just have to come here and make it your own.

* Famous street in Beyoglu, Istanbul (Turkey)
** Very recommended place to stay in Paknajol (near Thamel)

POKHARA

I spent almost 10 days in this beautiful town on the shore of Phewa Tal (Lake). Some of you may call it a very touristic modern mountain resort, when you see the central lakeside area and walk along the main street, full of trekking shops, internet cafes, souvenir shops and western cuisine restaurants. But even this touristic atmosphere can ruin its magical beauty. I don’t know how many times I walked along the main street per day or how many hours I spent, drinking my tea and looking at the lake.



As in the case of Kathmandu or we can say for all Nepal, Pokhara had been discovered by the hippies during 1970s; and it took just 10 years for it to become a popular holiday resort for both locals and foreign tourists.

I was unlucky in my first 6 days, before I started trekking in Annapurna Circuit, since I couldn’t enjoy the view of Annapurna Range and its reflection on the lake; but after I had returned, I couldn’t take my eyes looking at 8.000m peaks.

My advise would be that stay in the peaceful north side of the lake, just 10 min. walk from the centre. Bishnu Lodge is a good place to stay, which is ran by a very friendly family. They have a good restaurant also, Evergreen Rest., in which you can enjoy the great view of the lake while reading your book. And don’t forget to have a boat ride around the lake! In 6 hours, you can visit all sides of Phewa Tal, including having a lunch of delicious bicket fish and a tea stop in a Nepali house on the south shore while looking at the town.


Evergreen Rest.

ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT / DAY 15 - 18

DAY 16 ( Marpha – 2.670m to Ghasa 2.010m )
We should have started very early in the morning, as we planned to get close to the hot springs of Tatopeni (literally hot springs) as much as possible. I must say that neither of us had expected such a exhausting day, although we had been too lazy during the past 3 days.

We said a warm ‘Good bye’ to Mila after having a quick breakfast with her and kept on trekking. Tukuche was the first town of the day, once the custom point where Tibetan and Nepali traders exchanged salt with grain. We spent some time walking along the streets of the village, which was full of houses that were built in classic Thakali style flat roofed with carved windows, balconies and courtyard at the centre. After Tukuche, the landscape started to change as the desert hills turned into green trees.

After almost walking for 7 hours, including a short tea break in Kobang, we arrived at Kalopeni to have a lunch. The views of the eastern flank of Dhaulagiri (8.167m) and Annapurna I (8.091m) was beautiful, unfortunately I could not say the same thing for Kalopeni as it was just full of hotels. Prefer to stop in Lete, which is few min. after Kalopeni.

As the lunch break finished, we continued our way to Ghasa. A steep descent after Lete made us remember the old days:). It took us 2 hours to get down to the last town of the day, accompanied with the heroic view of Annapurna I and the bright moon over it.



Walking almost 9 hours had really made us exhausted. We found ourselves looking at the Nepali tv channel in the dining room of our hotel for a while after putting our backpacks inside the rooms. But still we had the intention to climb to Poon Hill (3.210m) to view the sunrise (very recommended) after going down to 1.190m in Tatopeni.

DAY 17 ( Ghasa – 2.010m to Tatopeni – 1.190m )
I joined Julian and Renata as I woke up around 08:00 AM. We were very spiritless all through the day. The only thing that kept us walking was the dream of entering inside the hot springs.



We arrived at Tatopeni around 02:00 PM. Used our last drops of energy for finding a good place to stay for 2 days. Luckily, we found one lodge which was very close to the hot springs, Trekkers’ Lodge/Inn. The decision had already been given, when we sat around the table: no climbing again, which meant no Poon Hill:)

DAY 18 ( Tatopeni – 1.190m )
I was in the small pool with few Nepalis at 07:00 AM; didn’t want to have the risk of sharing the springs with lots of trekkers. I enjoyed the hot water for a hour, before having a sunbath on the rocks.

The rest of the day had almost passed on the table in the hotel, with eating and drinking. We had completed our journey in the mountains very successfully. Only thing we had to do was to catch a jeep from Tiblyang to Beni (200 Rp./person) after 2 hours walk and to have a 4-5 hour bus ride to Pokhara. That was the thing we exactly did the next day.

ANNAPURN CIRCUIT / DAY 13 - 15

DAY 13 ( Kagbeni 2.800m )
The village lies near the confluence of Kali Gandaki and Jhong rivers. The old part of the town stands at the north side and is dominated by the views of Kag Chode Thupten Samphel Ling Gompa ( means "the monastery of the place to stop and develop concentration on teachings of Lord Buddha" ) and the ruined Kag Khar Palace with its dark alleys. interior courtyards and tunnels. It was too much fun to lose yourself inside the palace, where you may witness the lives of the villagers living inside.

During our discovery of the town, Juli and I stopped by the check point of the Upper Mustang district in order to get information about the region and Lo-Manthang, the only walled city in Nepal. What I understood is that the region is an autonomous district, governed by a Raja (now the 22nd) and have just Tibetan Buddhist population. According to the agreement between the Raja and Nepal Govern., 700$ fee/person goes to the Nepal Govern. and the district preserves its autonomy and unique characteristics. In 2007, just 1.100 foreign tourists had been in the district.



I saw also other statistics, which show France and Germany as the 1st and 2nd position in terms of tourist number visited Mustang district (around 2.500 per each). 3 Turkish people had visited last year, while 38 Argentineans were in Mustang during 2006. The total number is around 40.000 for the last 3 years, which had been over 70.000 ten years ago. The figures clearly shows the effects of Maoist problem. The ongoing peace between the government and the Maoist for the last 1,5 year caused some increase in the last 2 years.

DAY 14 ( Kagbeni 2.800m - Marpha 2.670m )
Starting from Kagbeni you have a really flat:) route ahead of you up to Lete (2.480m), but also a strong wind blowing from south to north which starts after noon. As we had been advised by the Australian-British couple, we decided to stay in Marpha at the end of the day.

After a half hour walk, we jumped in a tractor to take us to Jomsom. It was the most uncomfortable, but enjoyable ride I had ever had:) And also helped us to get rid of the Maoists, who had a second check point between Kagbeni and Jomsom. We had just told them that we had paid at the other side, when one of them stopped the tractor.



Around noon we arrived at Jomsom and spent one hour to handle Mila's flight process to Pokhara. Se had had limited time before going back to Argentina, that's why she preferred to fly back to Pokhara from Jomsom 2 days later and then visit Kathmandu for a few days. Julian and I tried to transfer the pictures we had taken to my i-pod, but for just one hour the only place we had found asked for 300 Rp. We decided to postpone the transfers and left this too much commercialized town as fast as possible.

1,5 hour walk to Marpha was very tough as the wind was so strong; but as soon as we saw it we understood why it was so popular among the tourists. The picturesque appearance, apple orchards and the monastries on the hill composed just the atmosphere we had wanted. And since the town was located between two ridges, it was protected from the wind.

After settling in Dhaulagiri Hotel and having a tasteless lunch, we enjoyed the sun with views of Nilgiri peaks on the roof top. Had a short walk in the town and found a good place, Marpha Bakery&Rest., for the dinner. On the way to our hotel, we came across 2 Belgians, who we met in Ghyaru. We were a little bit shocked, when they told us that 1 guy had died and another one had seriously injured while climbing to Thorung La Pass from High Camp 1 day after we had passed. I tried to get more information later in my Kathmandu days through internet, but I couldn’t find anything.

DAY 15 ( Marpha – 2.670m )
It was too obvious that we would have a problem with the hotel manager, when I had told him that we had our dinner in a different place the previous evening. As I expected, he kindly requested from us to leave the hotel, when he saw us coming from breakfast. We had had the same conflict in Muktinath also. Anyway, we moved our stuff to Neeru Hotel, which had a very nice garden and enjoyed all the afternoon there before exploring the town. Julian and I climbed to the monasteries on the hill after we visited the horticulture farm (all major temperate fruit trees are available in the farm and also helping to conserve more 45 varieties of apples collected from major apple growing countries) with the girls. The view of the town was great from the monasteries.



We spent all evening in our hotel, saying a proper ‘Good bye’ to Mila, as she had to go to Jomsom early in the next morning: beers, french fries, apple brandies and pies, etc. Who knows, maybe I would have the chance to see her in the southern part of Turkey in the future.

ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT / DAY 10 - 12

DAY 10 ( Letdar 4.200m - High Camp 4.850m )
After throwing ourselves out of the lodge as quick as possible, we climbed for about 45 min. up to a teahouse. Mila was so slow due to her headache. We were checking each other on the way; the altitude made this necessary. Just before we reached at the teahouse (4.310m), I started to feel the altitude also as it had been difficult to keep up the usual pace.

We drank our teas and Julian & Renata asked the price of one cup of black tea: 70 Rp. ( It normally varies between 15-20 Rp.). They started to argue with the Tibetan lady. When I got close to the venue, things had already got ugly as Tibetan lady hit Julian and Julian responded. While they were yelling each other, I realised that the husband? had taken his Gurung knife (has a similar form of a boomerang). I tried to calm him down and prevent him doing something stupid. Other trekkers were watching the movie, even one old guy had told the Arg. couple that they should have been ashamed of themselves. Anyway, at the end we paid money they wanted to end the conflict. On the way to Thorung Phedi, still some British were critisicing the Arg.s.

I'm not saying that Julian had completely behaved correctly; but it was so clear that the Tibetans had tried to take advantage of us, since we hadn't asked the price before ordering. And I hadn't seen any effort from the trekkers (mostly Europeans) to end the tussle.

Close to 11:00 AM we arrived at Thorung Phedi (4.450m), which consists of two hotels. After a short discussion, we decided to climb up to High Camp (4.850m) with our backpacks to stay the night there. In case of any altitude problem, we could have turned back to Thorung Phedi.

The 1 hour 15. min ascent was at a very slow pace. Still I cannot forget the last 10 min.. We saw the buildings of the only hotel in High Camp, it was just 20 meters away; but it took Julian and me 10 min. to get there:)

After we arrived and put our things to rooms, Julian & I climbed up to the chorten to have the view while the girls were trying to find way to get warm. As the sun set after 15:00 at the back of the mountains, everbody gathered around the tables to feel the heat coming from a small electrical heater. The old (around 55) guy from New Zealand, we met on the table, was the inspring surprise of the day. He had quited
from his job and left his wife and children to trek Annapurna Circuit and Everest Base Camp. In 2 months time, he would meet with his family in Kathmandu and travel Europe for two years with their van. He had a serious headache as Mila had, but still didn't lose his sense of homour.


High Camp / View from The Chorten

I could only have stood until 8 PM, the crowd had disturbed me and I was feeling tired because of the oxygen level. We agreed to start the trek at 6:00 AM with the light, while most people preferred to launch at 4:30 AM due to strong wind at the pass after 10:00 AM.

DAY 11 ( High Camp 4.850m - Muktinath 3.800 )
The day started as we planned. Other than Mila's headache, nobody had had an altitude problem in the morning. The trail was somewhere snowy and somewhere rocky, but easy to follow and almost flat:) The problem was that a few quick steps were enough to make us feel breathless. We were very cautious in our speed.

At the end of the 1st hour, we gave a long break in the teahouse since Mila's headache had been troubling her more and more. Onion&garlic soup and black tea she had as it had been the advise of porters and guides all through the circuit. We were back on our feet after the 30 min. break, but Mila's condition was making us very nervous. At the second time we stopped, she searched other options as she talked with the one of the local guys, renting horses to carry troubled trekkers. 50$ for carrying her to the top was too much for her. She decided to move on.

MILA
An Argentinean lady, aged around 35, who is working, living and travelling around the world for 14 years. But always selecting the hot seasons:)

2 more hours it took us to reach the Throung La Pass (5.416m). I was the slowest member of the group and had fallen 10 min. behind of my friends. I saw Renata&Julian at the pass, but Mila wasn't there. As Renata told me she hadn't stopped at the pass and went directly down. We hug each other, celebrating our conquest:) Took the picture and started descending just after. After a hour of descent on the slippery steep trail, I realised that after 10,5 days of climbing I had just stopped for one minute at the pass:) That 4 hours of climbing in the morning didn't let me to think clearly.



The view had completely changed at the other side. The huge and wide Muktinath valley gave us a desert landscape. There was no life sign up to the point where some villages around Muktinath were seen 1.600 meters below. Almost 3 hours later we found Mila sitting in a lodge restaurant and drinking her coke. She told us that after she had went down for maybe 200 meters, she asked a guy about her headache. Just after the guy told her that unless she puked, the headache was not so critical since she was descending; she puked in front of the guy:) Then ran down as fast as possible. She could have broken the time record of that descent trail:)

After a half hour walk, we were at Muktinath. As we got closed to the town, it was so clear that we would have a different trek during the rest of the circuit. Significant sized Hindu temples and Buddhist gompas (Tibetan Buddhist monastry) could be easily seen from the top of the town. We were now at the last town of the popular Jomsom Trek, which includes Lower Mustang district towns that had played an important role during "Salt Trade" era between Tibet and Nepal.

Agreed with the first lodge of the town and had our hot showers. Following our visit inside the town, we went to the most popular place of Muktinath, Bob Marley Hotel&Restaurant. The trekkers, who had been driven by their guides, were all there. The place was excessively branded with shirts, flags, any item you can guess of Bob Marley:) Julian and I tried the Yak steak finally. It has a very similar taste with cow meat.

DAY 12 ( Muktinath 3.800m - Kagbeni 2.800m )
No more appointments for the morning to start trekking from now on, it was the time to explore these historical towns. Everybody was all of one mind. It was around 14:00, when we left the lodge and started our short trek to Kagbeni, the gateway to Upper Mustang district and the closest point you can get to the mysterious walled city - Lo Manthang, the capital of the legendary kingdom of Mustang - unless you pay 700$ to enter the district.


Mila & Kagbeni

Accompanied with the great view of the Muktinath valley, meadows and streams, we first past Ranipauwa and then Jharkot villages. A hour walk on dusty stone road after Jharkot brought us to the edge of Kagbeni. It was nearly dark, when we went down the hill to enter the town and found Red House Lodge , serving inside a 350 years old building with a little monastry inside. A short walk we had after and spent the night talking with a middle-aged Australian-British couple in the lodge.

ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT / DAY 7 - 9

DAY 7 ( Lower Pisang - 3.200m to Braga - 3.500m )
There are two trails you can follow after Lower Pisang. The flat one leaves from Lower Pisang to Humde, through which you can enjoy a easy walk in the peaceful valley. The upper and the harder one, which you should ascend up to 3.750m before coming down to 3.500m, includes great views of the valley and the mountains.

At the end of the 6th day, with the information we had received and the hope of a clear sky due to the snow we'd seen after we had arrived at Lower Pisang, we had decided to take the latter route. Juli & I had also agreed on meeting before sunrise and climbing up to the Buddhist monastry on the top of Upper Pisang previous night. So we did; the morning ascent - maybe because of altitude and/or the backpacks and/or starting trekking with a steep climb just after waking up - was challenging. Unfortunately, the sky was again a little bit cloudy.

Finishing shooting, we met with the girls and continued our trek. 45 min. walk on the slope of the mountains was decorated with the view of the tiny and cute green lake. Then came the toughest ascent of the circuit, which leads to Ghyaru village. It took us nearly an hour to climb 400m. We had our black teas in a lodge of the village and rested.


Ghyaru

It was nearly noon when we started to walk again; the target was Ngawal village for the lunch break. With each second, the sky was getting clearer and the snow over 4.000m mountains was becoming brighter. After 2 hours of walking, we reached Ngawal. My blisters on my feet, from the beginning of the 3rd day, were hurting badly. Plus my right shoulder was aching due to my unbalanced old backpack. I had to repair it as soon as possible.

During lunch, I blew my blisters and hoped that they wouldn't effect me through the rest of the day as we had decided to reach at least Braga, which meant 3 hours of walking. For the first 15 min. I was convincing myself that I should wait my body&feet to get warm and then I would not feel the pain. When we started to descend steeply, I had already forgotten my blisters. The enchanting view of Annapurna III (7.555m) also accompanied us all the way down.

At the end of the descent, we found ourselves at the beginning of a forest with short trees lying through the northeast of side the valley. Since I'd been slower than my friends, by the time I caught them they had already been rested and prepared to move. On the contrary, I was tired and wanted to view and shoot Annapurna III for a while.

I stayed there for 15 min; when I walked a little bit, I was confused of having difficult trails. Decided to take the lower ones, which enter the forest, continued on my way. Few minutes later, there were no trails:) The little wooden bridge I saw far ahead helped me in finding a trail again. I realized that my Arg.s had the upper path. The way I should go was so clear; with the confidence of this knowledge the 1 hour lonely walk in the forest up to a small village, Mungji, was great.

I had a black tea and biscuit break in Mungji whilst watching the trails. It was the intersection point of the two trails. Waited for a half hour, but they didn't come; so I continued my way to Braga. The first thing I thought when I saw Braga village was that my fellows, especially Juli, would certainly love it as I did. As the sky was also getting dark when I arrived; decided to stay here and checked the lodges whether they'd already been in the town or not. Having 'No's, I put my stuff in one of the three rooms of a new built lodge after agreeing for "food&drink without bed".

I started to keep my eyes on the trail passing in front of my dining room. Just my hopes had finished, I heard a Spanish voice coming from the dark road. It was Juli's voice asking me to the previous lodge. Renata and Mila gave me a big hug:) They had really had some hard times and worried a lot.

The rest of the evening was full of joy and laugh, as we met again:) The lodge was ours since it had just 3 rooms filled with us and our hosts were so generous in keeping us warm in the dining room. Now it was the time for rest, logistic preparations and the great views of Annapurna range with hopefully a bright sky. As we were feeling good and had went up to 3.750m before, we decided to skip the acclimisation for the next day that most of the trekkers do at this point.

DAY 8 ( Braga - 3.500m )
At the time I woke up, it was the end of the night and from my window you could see the Annapurna III with the stars at the backround. At last we had our full clear sky!

I did some washing and stitched some of the parts of my backpack, which were ripped. After that I had a walk to Manang, which was 20 min. away from Braga. It's the biggest town after Chame and the last town before Thorung La pass. Full of hotels, bakeries and shops, in which most of the things a trekker needs could be found.

I was back at my lodge after 2 hours and I learnt from my friends that the tasty meals we had previous night were cooked by a cook from another lodge. As you can see our lodge was brand new:) As our hosts told us they could not cook, we went to that cook's lodge, Himalaya Lodge & Bakery. As the middle-aged Tibetan cook told, he had worked in Kathmandu with his wife for years and learnt international cuisine, then had started the first bakery house of the Manang district. I'm glad he did:) After 7 days of scarcity of tasty food, we were at the seventh heaven with the great view, beers, cheesecakes,...



As the sun set behind Annapurna range, we turned our faces to the exit and walked to our lodge with quick steps:) The evening passed as usual: simple dinner around the fire. It was a very relaxing day before we tested ourselves over 4.000m.

DAY 9 ( Braga - 3.500m to Letdar - 4.200m )
After buying Yak cheese&bread from Himalaya Lodge&Bakery and chocolate bars&tuna cans from Manang, we continued our way to Letdar. With the heroic view of the Range, we climbed for nearly a hour to our first black tea break. The way to Yak Kharka (4.018m) didn't take long. Yak Kharka just consists of 2-3 lodges as the latter stops before Thorung La pass. We had our lunch here and followed the trail to Letdar.

The first time any of us (Julian) felt the effects of altitude was during this period. Mila joined him in Letdar later with her headache. But nothing to worry about, 'cause these were the normal symptoms and we had all the afternoon, evening and night in Letdar to adapt our bodies to this level of oxygen.

The thing that disturbed us was the crowd in our lodge. As the towns had finished, we had just few lodges on our way to the Pass and there was no way to escape from the trekkers. The lodge management was another case: bad food, inadequate fire and cold rooms. Only funny experience we had was the mice in our (Mila&I) room, which ate all the peanuts of Mila all through the night:)

ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT / DAY 4 - 6

DAY 4 ( Bagarchhap - 2.160m )
We'd decided to stay and spent a whole day in some villages before trekking, when we felt tired or liked the village. One of the phrases we'd been using frequently was (and still using) "We're not tourists, we're travellers", especially during times of bargaining:) After 3 day trekking and seeing all French and German trekkers, dressed special trekking gear and hired guides&porters through which they were also handling their food orders in lodges:), the phrase had been changed into "not trekkers, but travellers". As a bunch of travellers, we needed some rest and had been also complaining about our trekking timing (8:00-17:00) since we hadn't time to travel inside the villages.



After washing and drying our clothes with the morning sun, we had a sunbath until noon. Little walk in the village followed by 'King' lesson for my Arg.s. It was so clear that they hadn't had much experience in card games:) While I was walking to my room, I was feeling anxious to start trekking the next morning.

DAY 5 ( Bagarchhap - 2.160m to Chame 2.670m)
The day started very early for me as I woke up around 05:00 AM. While I was doing some streching moves, I saw the peak of Annapurna II for the first time (7.939m). It made me hopeful for the rest of the day. Before we started trekking, I gave some my clothes ( my favourite green short, sweatshirt, 2 shirts), which were hard to make dry, to the owner/manager of the lodge.

Up to Danaqyu, the 30min. walk was flat and easy. After that we had a long, steep and rocky climb. I was telling myself not to give break until the top. So I did; I was feeling very fit after the rest in Bagarchhap. The climb was followed by a walk in a pine tree forest up to Chame, during which I'd found my trekking stick (a wooden stick) at last. It's a very useful equipment when climbing. When we had been getting close to Chame, Annapurna II showed most of its huge block between clouds. We were so close and almost 5.500m of altitude was between us. I hoped to have a better view in Chame.

Arrived at Chame, the capital city of Manang District, around 14:00. A big town with a bank, post office, etc... It seemed to be the right place to end the day's trekking. Agreed with a newly built lodge, which had a fire place also, with usual terms. Girls were delighted to have the fire (Before Chame no village lights fire or avoids as much as possible for environmental reasons) and I was feeling like it had been weeks since I felt heat on my skin. After we had lunch there, we walked in the town. It's worth to spend some time here.



Day ended in the fire place; unfortunately this time we couldn't have escaped from the crowds. Dutch and French tourists and their guides/porters were also with us. That's why I went to bed a little early than before.

DAY 6 ( Chame - 2.670m to Lower Pisang - 3.200m )
The route started easy and contuinued all day like that. It seemed that we'd finished the hard part until trekking over 4.000 meters. The sad part was that we hadn't had bright sky up to that point, which at the same time made the trip a little bit mystical.

Around 3.000m we saw the great and impressive rock curve, after which the climbing of the valley had finished and we were walking in the 'Peaceful Forest'. As the name implies, the 20 min. walk was really peaceful since the Marsyangdi Khola had weakened and the trail got away from it.

Getting out of the forest we saw Upper Pisang and then Lower one. As the girls didn't want to climb more:), we decided to stay in Lower Pisang and selected the most untouristic lodge. First we got surprised that the prices went lower, but then we realized that there's a airport in Dumre (close to Pisangs).

Except us, just two English? girls were staying in our lodge, who were quiet types. After the walk in the town, 'King' lecture continued. While we were eating our dinner, the manager joined us. He was a 1.65m height & 35 years of age, talkative guy. When I asked him what Chyang meant in the menu, he said "Nepali beer" and invited us to a place in order to drink it. Before I had tried and liked Rakshi , which was introduced as "Nepali wine". It tastes like Saki.

We went to a momo restaurant(during daytime and can be accepted as a bar at night). One Tibetan young woman and 5-6 guys were sitting around the fire. The manager ordered two hot chyang for Julian and me(Girls had decided to stay in the hotel). Guys were already drunk and high as our manager was. Julian and I had been waiting to taste Yak meat for a while, so we asked whether it was possible. Not Yak but dried cow meat,called Landung, we had. The young woman first boiled the dry meats and added some curry after. It was too hard to eat, but it had been so long since we had our last meat:) Nearly an hour we were there; then went to our hotel. All the way the manager told us not to say his wife that he was drunk:) Joined the girls, who were sitting in the kitchen around the fire with the pretty Tibetan lady, wife of the manager. Lots of yak meats were hanged in the kitchen(Getting close to the winter, the villagers starts to hang yak and cow meats on top for 2-3 weeks in order to dry them. In small places they prefer not to sell to tourists). The night ended with some Tibetan and Argentinean love songs, sang by the drunk manager and Renata.

ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT / DAY 1 - 3

Before...
My Pokhara days lasted 6 days before starting the trek. In the first 3 of it, I couldn't do any search due to my illness. On the 4th day morning, I started to walk along the main touristic road, which is full of trekking gear shops. On the way to Damside (south part of lake), I met by chance my Argentinean&Spanish friends. We had seperated after Lumbini, since they wanted to stop at Palpa(Tansen) due to Renata's sickness. Like me, the Arg.s had been also dreaming the Circuit. We agreed to discuss the issue the next morning, after doing our investigation.

The discussion lasted very short on the 5th day morning:) 25.000-30.000 Rp. (around 400-500$)/person we calculated the budget for 3 weeks, in which trekking equipment shopping (5.000 Rp. for me), 2.000 Rp. ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Project) fee, the Maoist fee (It's been said that they had check points which they try to collect money from the tourists; 1.000 Rp. we estimated) and accomodation&food (1.000/day) are included. As noone had predicted to trek in Nepal in such altitudes before, we should have bought lots of stuff, especially me:).

Boots - 2.450 Rp.
Trouser - 600 Rp.
Jacket - 600 Rp.
Hat for cold - 150 Rp.
Hat for sun - 120 Rp.
Gloves - 200 Rp.
Inner trouser - 170 Rp.
3 pair of socks - 300 Rp.
Sweat-shirt - 400 Rp.
Other - 200 Rp.

Of course, every product was Chinese origin and Gore-Tex:) We were exhausted but very excited, the hard part had already finished:) After buying 2 days later touristic bus ticket to Besisahar, we could have now started to enjoy our Pokhara days.

DAY 1 ( Bhulbhule - 840m. to Bahundanda - 1.310m. )
In the morning, we had the chance to witness the glorious mountains for the first time. Actually, the sky was not so clear; but with each second the red sunrise lighten the rocky and snowy peaks of Annapurnas. It was enough to make us anxious, since it was the first time we saw them from Pokhara during our visit.

4 hours later we arrived at Besisahar and registered ourselves to ACAP check point. We learned that it was possible to take a bus to Bhulbhule, so we did. And Julian&I enjoyed a lot, travelling on the top of the bus as Nepalis do:) on the road! if you could say.

Before start walking, we had a lunch with a Czech guy, who we met on the top of the bus. The trail starts with a long suspension bridge over Marsyangdi Khola (River). Following the river, we walked into the deep and wide green valley. It had been just 2 months after the Monsoons, and it was nearly impossible to see the soil under the trees and plants.

Up to Ngadi village, the trail was easy; but with the addition of my trekking gear,the weight of my backback had already started to disturb me. I decided to put on my boots instead of the casuals. Although I was relieved a little bit, still I was thinking the upcoming days. After Ngadi, the path got steeper and stoney. At the end of our 3 hours walk, we arrived at Bahundanda and agreed with the first lodge (50 Rp./person for bed) we saw.

The owner of our small lodge and his nephew joined us during our dinner. Delicious Tibetan bread, vegatable soup, lemon and fresh mint tea accompanied with a sincere conservation with the locals (and without other trekkers) were just the things we had wanted. Night ended around 9:30 PM, after agreeing with the Arg.s in order to meet at 8:00 AM in the morning for breakfast.


Bahundanda

DAY 2 ( Bahundanda - 1.310m. to Chamje - 1.430m. )
Day started with descending down to Syanje (1.100m). We gave a short break before ascending to Jagat. It was a very though climb; we were breathless at the end of it and luckily! there was a restaurant. After having my Dal Bhat ( the national and the only dish of Nepalis: Rice served with curry and vegetables in small spots - similar to Indian Thali. Nepalis eat 2 times every day. ), we followed an easy trail up to Chamje.

The lodge we stayed were being managed by 4 girls and a boy aged between 6-16. The father had gone to Kathmandu for business, no idea about their mom. They were like 'Little Women' in the kitchen, while preparing our dinner. Playing and dancing and cooking...:)


Chamje - Our Hotel

DAY 3 ( Chamje - 1.430m to Bagarchhap - 2.160m )
We started a little bit earlier than the previous day. I was thinking of my wet clothes, which were getting heavier. Due to the cloudy weather in the first 2 days (And since you're walking in very deep valley, the sun is avaliable for limited hours) and our trekking timing (8:00 - 17:00), I hadn't had the chance to dry them. The 3rd day was same as it were, the only soultion comes on my mind was to hang my stuff on my backpack one by one.

The first steep stone climb made me forget my problem easily. Just finished it and started to walk on a flat trail, I saw the next one with some locals and tourists gathered at the beginning of it. As we approached, it was understood that it was the Maoist check point.

The Maoists
An Israelite woman with her porter was arguing with the guys in order not to pay any fee. My image of the Maoists was a few serious looking armed men; but they were bunch of guys in sport pants and jeans with black sun glasses and a big spoilt smile on their faces. The Arg.s were discussing the issue among themselves in Spanish. After two trekker had given 1.000 Rp./person in the name of donation!, we told the Maoists that we were South Americans and had come from a long way, no porters, no guides because of insufficient money, etc. They requested from us to stand aside; they were seemed to be convinced and would let us pass after collecting from other trekkers waiting behind of us. As the 2 German girl had given 2.000 Rp./person and wished 'Bad Karma':) to them, we talked for a few seconds more and left them behind without any charge:)

Finishing the half an hour climb, it took us 20 min. to reach Tal, the first town of Manang District. It's a mid-size village, set near the Marsyangdi Khola, where you can find more variety of products and some trekking gear. Had our lunch and continued our way. The first hour was easy, but then we started to climb again and my stomach in bad condition (probably because of the soup I had in Tal) and my heavy backpack was slowing down me. I'd already fallen 30 min.- 45min. behind of my friends before Karte. It was getting thougher with each second; I was hoping the Arg.s to wait for me at the entrance of Dharapani and thinking of which clothes&things I could get rid of.

They weren't there when I arrived at Dharapani. I rested for few minutes in the ACAP check point, bought a Mars chocolate and continued to climb the trail to Bagarchhap. REMEMBER! If a Tibetan/Nepali tells you that the trail is almost flat/plain, it means you'll climb for few hundreds of meter - but on a wider mostly soil path:) The Mars really helped me to finish the 45 min. ascend. I started to ask my friends
to lodges, luckily they were in the second one. We screamed!, when we saw each other and sat in Renata&Juli's room for a half hour. Then I went to my room to rest for a while. It was 8:30 PM, when I woke up and the village and the lodge had been already sleeping. I puked in the toilet and went to my bed again. At last my stomach had been relieved.

............

During this 3 day, we fed very basicly: 2 eggs any style with shared chapati or tibetan bread for breakfasts, soups for lunchs, fried potatoes vith vegatables or chowmeins (noodle) for dinners, drank water filled from fountains after dropping iodine drops. The prices were too high compared to Pokhara and the information we had was that it would get higher as we ascended. The cloudy weather had also helped in killing our appetite. 600-700 Rp. was our daily cost per person.

Although every lodge was given the same price list including bed fees, we understood quickly that since the foods are priced so highly, generally lodges were OK for just billing for food&drink. The amatuer look we had without any porter and guide also helped us in our bargainings.

Annapurna Circuit

Hi everybody,

At last my feasibility study has finished and the decision has given: Annapurna Circuit is the route, which includes a 5.416 meter Thorung La Pass. I expect to be in Pokhara in 16 to 21 days. The route includes Nepali, Tibetan and Gurung villages and some spectular mountains (Annapurna I - 8.091m, Annapurna II - 7.937m, Anna. III - 7.555m and keeps going and going...), valleys, lakes, etc. So who knows maybe I'd prefer to stay a little bit longer.

In the mean time you'll not hear from me. I'm leaving you with my last photo, which is so familiar for some of you:)

LUMBINI

Me and my Argentinean friends had a tough and tedious travel from Varanasi to Lumbini. After waiting for 2 hours delay, when we got inside our coach of the Gorakhpur train, we confronted with a number of people doubling the number of the seats and waited for the conductor to solve our problem. First receiving the bribes from the fugitives, he created 4 seats for us. Arriving Gorakhpur after 7 hours, we found the bus that would drive us to the border in 3 hours. Handling some official processes in just 15 min., we were at the Nepali side with our 2 months visa. We agreed with a taxi for 500 Rp (64 Nepali Rp = 1$) to take us Lumbini. It’s possible to go by bus, which as I remember costs about 30 Rp.

As I wrote before, Lumbini is the birthplace of Buddha, the man who would later achieve enlightenment under a Bodhi tree and inspire a global philosophy of peace.

The town consists of 3 parts. Lumbini Development Zone is a huge park, which includes Maya Devi Temple (marks the exact birthplace of Buddha) and lots of Buddhist monasteries – some had already been built, some under construction – of Buddhist communities around the world. Small market area includes a few budget hotels, restaurants and shops. And the traditional villages in the wetlands, at which I had the most beautiful times in Lumbini.



I spent the rest of the day reading my Lonely Planet Nepal book, after we had arrived late in the afternoon. At the end of day, I realized that Nepal has much more offerings for me than I had expected. It was not just a place for mountaineers trying to climb the peaks of the world or a mixture of Tibetan, Nepali and other local cultures and religions; but a land with great trekking routes including over 5.000 meters passes, which can be done by good trekking equipment and staying in budget hotels available all through the routes. I decided to extend my days in Lumbini for 1-2 day in order to make an efficient plan.

DAY 25
Second day started with a meeting with an old Spanish man (aged around 55), who had been living in Kerala state in India for the last couple of years. Later in the day, I listened his story: a drug and alcohol addict, after when he bottomed out went to an ashram in Kerala and met his guru (a real goddess as he defines). As he told, this guru cured his lifetime illness, which leads to a tic (something like that) that prevents him from sleeping, by touching his legs. He had meditated for one year in the ashram and decided to leave for a while to see how he changed. I must say that I saw his old photograph in his passport and the change was really impressive.

DAY 26
I started my 3rd day morning with a bike ride through the traditional villages, set on the wetlands. After I lost the vision of the market in few minutes, I followed the pathway passing through a small village; which had already woken up. After that were endless fields. Men were tilling the soil, women were harvesting, younger kids were playing while older ones were helping their parents. Almost 2 hours, I enjoyed a ride through infinite green and golden fields.



On the afternoon, I visited the Development Zone with my bike. Met with a Nepali teenager in a pilgrims rest house and talked for nearly an hour about Nepal’s current political situation and our countries’ resemblances on this subject. He was a little bit pessimistic due to what he has confronted with up to this time and maybe because of his age, but aware of all the happenings in his country. I hope that there are more of these youngsters.

DAY 27
At last I visited the Maya Devi Temple. Since it was built over 2.500 years ago, do not expect a well-preserved construction. Unfortunately, I wasn’t in my most spiritual mood because of seeing the hundreds of empty packages of snacks around the monasteries and the Nepali youngsters coming with their bikes and posing on their helmets as if they were in a holiday resort.

As my days in Lumbini finished late in the evening, I had already given my decision. Pokhara would be the next destination and a feasibility study would be made for trekking Annapurna Circuit (for most, the best trekking route in the world).

…………

Now, I’m writing these words on my 3rd day in Pokhara. Last 2 days were passed by dealing with my flu. I think I’ll recover fully at the end of tomorrow. From the first moment I saw the town, I wanted to say to you “Book a flight as soon as possible and get your skinny! asses to here”. But since you would not listen to me, just make your next travel plan to explore Nepal and count me in it.

See you soon,

NEPAL

The country is located between India and Tibet (China), which had been long benefited from its location as a resting place and trade route for traders, travelers and pilgrims. Unfortunately, today, it’s one of the poorest countries in the world (82% of the population –27 mio.- is living on less than 2$/day), which has been still suffering from its political instability. Not fully transformed into democracy, Nepal’s one big problem is the Maoists’ terror, who has been waging the People’s War since 1996 due to government corruption, the failure of democracy and the dissolution of the Communist government. Although the leader of the Maoists declared in 2002 that their attacks would not target the foreigners, the tourism sector naturally has been badly influenced for the last few years. And in the light of what I’ve seen in the last week, I can easily say that this country has a huge potential.

Geographically, we can divide Nepal into two main parts. Consider it as a horizontal rectangle: the below 1/3 of the country, named Terai, consists of plain fields which are very appropriate for agriculture with the help of monsoon rains. The above part is the Himalayas, in which 8 of 10 highest peaks in the world are located.

Varanasi

Maybe the most important and holiest city for pilgrims since they come here to wash away their sins, to die, to be cremated and released into to the waters of The Ganges River.

I came to Varanasi with great expectations: thinking of learning tabla (a kind of drum); seeing and listening the most spiritual cerenomies. Well, now I'm glad that I'm leaving in a few hours to visit the land of Himalayas, Nepal.

I'd arrived at 04:00 AM and searched for my hotel, Vishnu Rest House (nice view, clean - but unfriendly service), recommended by a Polish couple I met before. It took nearly 1 hour of my rickshaw driver to find the place. After sleeping for a while, I threw myself on the streets of Godaulia (The Old City)and then the Dasaswamedh Ghat Rd. The unpleasant feeling inside me since my arrival had been growing with each step. 30 min. walk outside Godaulia was just enough for me to turn back to Godaulia, where I felt safe and away from chaos. It was really like a hell; for the first time I hadn't enjoyed my first day walk. Maybe the reason was the fact that changing cities/towns permanently makes it much harder to adjust yourself to the new place after a while. I had to give some time and chance to Varanasi.



Well, my feelings didn't change; in fact maybe worse than before. I didn't like the local people. I didn't like the young male adults, drank bhang lassi (heavy drug in the form of lassi-very similar to 'ayran' in Turkey), yelling and dancing during the end of Durga Festival (important religious festival), harassing the foreigners (rarely!. And I couldn't have stood more to see the dogs lonely, ignored, injured by other dogs and mostly lying in the corner of the roads-looking for a safe place. Maybe the reason is people I met, maybe the way I see things and maybe the things I experienced before. But anyway since this is my story...

Certainly, lots of people love the city. It gives lots of options to learn how to play Indian music, to yoga and all other things specific to the local culture. You may surely like her.

Three things happened to me that I will remember nicely. The first one is my first
haircut experience in India. It's really hard to find a barber shop with a electrical razor; it took my 1,5 hour to shorten my hair and mustache in the shop I found since the machine was from ancient centuries:)Painful, but funny... The second
one is the cafe, which is my favourite spot in Varanasi, named Lotus Lounge (below photo is my view from there). A teaser for the upcoming Goa...I had visited 6-7 times in 4 days. The owner, Mr. Atul, also has another restaurant in Goa; managing with his European wife.



Starting with a train travel to Gorakphur, my journey to Nepal will start tonight, accompanied by 3 Argentinians. They're the number 3. Two of them had been in Turkey for a while before coming to India and loved her. This might be the reason why we're getting along so well together with all our similarities in country basis. Probably Lumbini, a small village where Buddha was born in 563 BC, will be my next destination. I hope I could erase the unpleasant expression of my face there.

I'm sorry I could not upload the photos, it's difficult in Varanasi. In fact nothing too nice as my time in here.

See you soon,

Khajuraho

It's been nearly a week, since I had written my last entry. In the mean time, I just wanted to be less active. Less shooting, less visiting, just talk with people, have a lemon ginger honey tea and ease my mind...Khajuraho helped me in doing these.

DAY 12
I arrived in this small town on Saturday afternoon by bus from Jhansi. The bus was full of tourists: Spanish, English, Japan?, Serbian and finally a Turk. I was siting at the back of her seat (Her name is Ezgi), chatting with one of the Spanish guys and when her Serbian friend heard that I'm from Turkey, she warned Ezgi. It was a little bit weird and difficult to speak and understand her at first, since it had been nearly 2 weeks without hearing my native language. Bus travel was not so comfortable since the seat were just designed for Indian sizes.

After getting off the bus, I started to look for a hotel with the Spanish guys. Yogi Lodge was the one we found. We agreed on 50 Rp. per night with the guy who offered me 60 at the moment I got out of the bus, while other customers were staying for min. 100 Rp... I couldn't figure out the exact system, but I think they just look at you and make a guess in order to get you. Rooms were clean, food was ok and cheap... Although I was in a touristic spot, up to that time I had gotten the best room with the best price.

After putting my things in the hotel room, I met with Ezgi and her friend and had a dinner with them. She had been in India for more than a month, working in Jaipur for a social organization. They had been traveling for the weekend.

DAY 13
My initial plan was to visit the western temples; but I was feeling too tired and also getting a little bit bored of visiting temples and palaces, etc. permanently.
I must say I almost did nothing except having beers with my Spanish friends. We met with also other Spanish people, lots of actually. The town nearly turned into a little Spania.

DAY 14 - SPANISH VUELTA
Spanish guys had been leaving at the afternoon. We rented bicycles at the morning and directed ourselves into the rural areas. It was really nice to meet with the village people, who were very poor but at the same time so generous. I visited a primary school; lots of kids were sitting on the floor and trying to follow what the teacher was writing on the black board. Had a picture of them and took the adress of the teacher in order to send them after.



Having sent them, I was thinking what to do in the coming days. I was planning to be on the way to Varanasi on Tuesday afternoon; but still I couldn't had found the desire and the energy to visit the temples. And more importantly, one Indian military helicopter pilot, Goa, and his Swiss girlfriend, Corinna, and Austrian Viktor had the plans to visit the Panna National Park on Wednesday. It was the time to see some tigers, crocodiles.


DAY 15
At last I visited the western and eastern temples, as if it was my duty as a travel guide.

KHAJURAHO TEMPLES
During 10th and 14th 85 temples, on which you might see Kamasutra sculptures, were built in the area. The area has never been an important place, before and after the temples. Now 24 temples are standing.

Not a certain figure, but it's been said that around 84 figures of different Kamasutra positions are hidden on the walls of the temples (mostly western temples).
You may see the ones I found in my pictures, for over 18 age:).

DAY 16
Early in the morning we started our short-time travel to the park. We had to be there around 06:00 am in order to see the tigers since they were leaving the park roads after sunrise and going up to the hills to chill. I was excited; this was my first little safari tour.

Well, total failure:) No tigers, no crocodiles... Just some elephants, and deers, and bucks... Anyway it was enjoyable to stand on the jeep and look for the wild animals. I hope next time!



After our little safari had finished, Goa, Corinna and I kept on our way to Panna (on the way to Varanasi) to stay in a hotel, which was for military and governmental officals. Corinna and I acted as paragliding instructors, looking for a convenient place around the area for Navy, in order to pay less for the rooms.

Panna is a middle-size town, set around a lake. Not-touristic I can easily say; but our facility had a lake-view from the hill, it was set on. Calm and peaceful... Me and my friends had a lot in common; talked for long hours and shared our countries and thoughts. Especially the things about India, I learned from Goa, had given a rise to my doubts related to India; whether she had lost some of its characterictics that make her unique. India have been and is clearly changing as in most part of the world.

DAY 17
Up to 02:00 PM, we had just sat in the garden of the facility and talked. Then moved on our way to Satna, which would be the place for us to separate from each other. They were going to Mumbai and I was to Varanasi.

The good-bye was too sudden and insufficient. They realized the bus stop, they should got off, at the last minute. We were looking at each other, as if we're sorry for not to say good-bye as we wanted.

Once again I was alone on the road. After a 1 hour trip to a town called Rewa from Satna, I finally jumped in my bus carrying to Varanasi.

Orchha - The Ghost City

DAY 10/11, 11/12.10.07

DAY 10
This great town was not in my plans as I said before. I was on my way to Khajuraho from Agra; I had to stop in Jhansi (the most untouristic place I've seen in India up to now) and catch a bus. I had read about Orchha, but wasn't sure whether it would worth or not. On the train to Jhansi, I thought "Why not" since it was just 18km away from Jhansi.

About 04:00 AM I was in Jhansi train station and agreed with a autorickshaw for 30 Rp. in order to go to bus station. It was difficult to get along with the people there since except the drivers of rickshaws, noone, even the officials in the station, could not speak in English. While trying to refuse rickshaw drivers' offers to drive me to Orchha for 100 Rp., finally I met with two medial students. They helped me to find a tempo (a little bigger than autorickshaw, which can carry 12 people:)) and agreed with the driver for 20 Rp (10 for me + 10 for my backpack).

The previous day in Agra and the train trip made me exhausted, I decided to have a rest and try to get informed about the town as usual. By the time I arrived, I knew I had given a good decision.

ORCHHA
I was surprised when I had a small walk around the town since once the capital of the Bundelas, it is now just a few unkept, dusty streets and buildings. BUT within a well preserved temples&palaces and a great natural surrounding, including Betwa River (rafting and swimming seems to be possible). I thought that it would be great to visit the temples and palaces and to shoot them at sunrise&sunset.



DAY 11
I woke up early in the morning and was anxious to picture the buildings as soon as possible during the sunrise. I walked to the east of the town, to a bridge over Betwa River connecting the town to Tikamgarh road. Men were bathing and women were washing their clothes in the river. Lovely it was, but definitely not even close to the things I would see and feel in the next hour.

I continued my way to the Cenotaphs of Orchha's rulers, lived during 17th and 18th centuries. The sunrise had started to show effects on the walls, the river, the hills and trees lying at the back of the cenotaphs. I was confused; shooting everything I saw in my viewfinder. Turning west, east, north, south...I had to be quick, shouldn't miss the sunrise; but how? I thought all the other things in and outside the town.

The tension was rising, increased the speed of my steps as if someone was following me. I was trying to describe the things I was seeing. Was I really aware of what I was confronted with? I hadn't prepared myself for this.

Some guys, playing cricket, helped me to calm a little bit. I decided to split my visit into two days. Had decided to have a breakfast; it should have helped me to calm, to think, to organize my days in Orchha.

I went to a luxury hotel's restaurant, right in the middle of some Mahals, camel stables and Lhana Hammam. I was still breathing hardly, when I ordered my meal. Terrified I was. Where I was? Why was I feeling all this things? Words, sentences, full pages were echoing in my mind; trying to give some meaning to this madness. Yes, this should be the way to catch my gasp. I had to define that last hour.

For nearly half an hour I was in the restaurant. My meal had already finished and still I couldn't recover myself. This should be over, it was obvious that I couldn't continue on my discovery. Had to go to my hotel, my small room; should close my eyes against all the things I was seeing.

I could barely hear the words of the town's people on my to the hotel, but couldn't understand them. I was looking at my way and calculating the minutes ahead of me.

At last I was in my room. I lied down my bed. The sun was draining inside, carrying the words of the temples inside. They were calling me. I put my headphone of my i-Pod and turn on 'Fujiya Miyagi'. First I had release the energy in me. After a while the terror turned into joy; now was the time for some heavy 'Sigor Ros'. I was getting better. Closed my eyes and finally found the answer.

I had entered into a new world, passed the gateway; before I knew it.

...........

I was okey, when I woke up at noon. Ready to visit the temples and palaces. At the rest of my day I shoot pictures, sat down in a cafe in the middle of the market and talked with my German friend,Rick.


I

Orchha Days

DAY 12 - 12.10.07

Hi everyone,

Due to the dial-up connection in Orchha, it's taking me hours to upload the photos and to update my blog. I have to ask from you to wait for a while. I'm hoping to solve this problem Khajuraho: my plan is to be there tomorrow later in the evening.

I have to say that my Orchha days were wonderful. Lots of good photos and stories are waiting for you.

Bye,

From Dawn Till Dusk - Taj Mahal

DAY 10 - 10.10.07

Today was really exhausting as I woke up around 04:30 AM to shoot Taj Mahal during dawn. I went to the roof of Shanti Lodge Hotel, surely the best place to wiew Taj Mahal.

.........

Taj Mahal
The greatest monument of the history was started to be built, when the second wife of Emporer Shah Jahan -Mumtaz Mahal- had died in year 1631. The devastated emporer had started to built the monument right after and from all over the country (and some countries near India) marbles and precious stones ( which had been placed in the marbles) were ordered. The actual name of the monument is Mumtaj Mahal, since there's no 'z' in Indian alphabet and through the years it turned into Taj Mahal. It took more than 20 years to complete the construction as it had been completed in 1653.

Entry to the area is through 30m red sandstone gateway, on which verses from Koran is written. Passing through the gateway, a huge classical Mughal garden greets you. Taj Mahal itself stands on a raised marble platform, which clearly increases its glory. At both sides stands symetric buildings: the west is a museum where Agra's muslims gathers still and the east is supposed to be built for accommodation for travellers during those times.

Unfortunately, the monument is said to be badly influenced by pollution. That's why after 1994, new industrial developments were banned in Agra. The traffic has been strictly controlled around Taj Mahal and only pollution free rickshaws or vehicles can now pass certain control points.

One important thing I'd like to mention is during full moon times for 5 days (+ before and after 2 days),Taj Mahal is open for the visitors. BUT you should make reservation before in order to get your place in only 400 people/day. I'm sure that it's worth to view the monument during full moon.

.........

After sunset my visit to Taj Mahal finished. It had been a great experience and I was feeling sad when I was walking outside the area, since for long times my days would start knowing that the monument would not be right at the corner.

I went to my hotel and packed my things in order to see Khajuraho. Luckily, India's surprises had not finished and on my way to the train station I was companied with a small festival/show around Taj Mahal. I asked lots of people but no satisfying answer I got about the fest.

That's it for today. Now I'm in a small town called 'Orchha'; I will try to tell tomorrow how I got here, because the internet connection is not so good here and I'm still trying to upload the pictures. Hopefully, all the process will be finished tomorrow.

See you,

From Ajmer to Agra

Hi everybody,

At last I could have left Pushkar and came to Agra after a small visit to Ajmer. There's not much thing to tell about Ajmer. I had no time to see every touristic place. Only Jain Red Temple, in which golden models depicting the Jain concept of the ancient world are in it. I have to say they were fascinating. I will probably upload the photos tomorrow after shooting Taj Mahal - Don't expect to much by the way, cause the windows of the hall was closed.

As I mentioned about Agra, I'd like to say few words. After seeing Jaipur, this city (around 1,5 mio pop.) is seemed to me very friendly. Especially, around Taj Mahal there are lots of gardens and the people are really much more kind and helpful. I'm staying in a family's guest house (Friends Paying Guest House - near eastern gate of Taj Mahal) and Vicar (Father) and his 9 year old son, Hari, are so friendly. To ask people on the road about directions is just enough to be asked whether they can drop you.

I'll spare all my time to Taj Mahal tomorrow for photographing. I have never seen such a heroic building up to now; just seeing it from a few kms away makes me get very excited.

Hope to see you tomorrow,

Pushkar - Hand of Lotus

I really don't know where to begin. I was planning to stay in this lovely town, set around a holy lake, for 2-3 days. Now this is my 5th day and I don't know how to leave here.

I've simply lost myself in Pushkar. The outside world has lost its meaning and seems to be much much far away from me. Don't think it's just me who thinks this way: the people I came with from Jaipur are also still staying in the town, even some of them will be returning in their country in a week and they had plans which includes visiting other places also before turning back to home. We just cannot find the exit:)

Let me tell a little bit of Pushkar. It's a small (around 14.000 pop.), desert-edged town, in which 400-500 temples are. It's said to have appeared when Brahma dropped a lotus flower on earth. Altough the town is just 11km far away from Ajmer, which mostly Muslims live, it's one of Hindu's most important holy places and has one of few Brahma temple (only one in India) inside.

With it's friendly, touristic and holy atmosphere, it's why most people comes in India and what they expect from her. You may sit in a cafe drinking a lemon gingered honey tea with a monkey top of you eating fruits or walk around the lake and watch Indian people bathing in the holy lake.

Altough very touristic place it is (makes shopping a little bit costly compared with other cities and towns of India), it's so easy to find cheap, clean and nice-view (lake or mountains) hotel even in this season. I'm staying in Diamond Hotel, which costs me 80 Rp. per day (2$). You may find Israelian, Chinese, Thai, Mexican dishes in addition to Indian cuisine (max. 80 Rp. per meal). Not to need to say they're delicious. Note that only vegetarian food avaliable due to their religious rule (no-alcoholic also).

I have lots of places as for my favourites, but just want to mention two of them: Sunset Cafe and Savitri Temple. The first one as the name implies has a great view of the town during sunset with sometimes local music show. And the second one is a small temple set up the hill, which you can see the town and areas reserved for Camel Fair (one in every year during October-November).

For your konwledge, you may find anything in Pushkar (lots of Internet Cafe_Royal Cyber Space/10 Rp. per hour).

I had really shoot nice photos, you may find them through the link given at the left.

The next stop will be Agra (try to have a small visit to Ajmer), the city of Taj Mahal, I just need to find the exit:)

For the time being bye bye,