My Pokhara days lasted 6 days before starting the trek. In the first 3 of it, I couldn't do any search due to my illness. On the 4th day morning, I started to walk along the main touristic road, which is full of trekking gear shops. On the way to Damside (south part of lake), I met by chance my Argentinean&Spanish friends. We had seperated after Lumbini, since they wanted to stop at Palpa(Tansen) due to Renata's sickness. Like me, the Arg.s had been also dreaming the Circuit. We agreed to discuss the issue the next morning, after doing our investigation.
The discussion lasted very short on the 5th day morning:) 25.000-30.000 Rp. (around 400-500$)/person we calculated the budget for 3 weeks, in which trekking equipment shopping (5.000 Rp. for me), 2.000 Rp. ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Project) fee, the Maoist fee (It's been said that they had check points which they try to collect money from the tourists; 1.000 Rp. we estimated) and accomodation&food (1.000/day) are included. As noone had predicted to trek in Nepal in such altitudes before, we should have bought lots of stuff, especially me:).
Boots - 2.450 Rp.
Trouser - 600 Rp.
Jacket - 600 Rp.
Hat for cold - 150 Rp.
Hat for sun - 120 Rp.
Gloves - 200 Rp.
Inner trouser - 170 Rp.
3 pair of socks - 300 Rp.
Sweat-shirt - 400 Rp.
Other - 200 Rp.
Of course, every product was Chinese origin and Gore-Tex:) We were exhausted but very excited, the hard part had already finished:) After buying 2 days later touristic bus ticket to Besisahar, we could have now started to enjoy our Pokhara days.
DAY 1 ( Bhulbhule - 840m. to Bahundanda - 1.310m. )
In the morning, we had the chance to witness the glorious mountains for the first time. Actually, the sky was not so clear; but with each second the red sunrise lighten the rocky and snowy peaks of Annapurnas. It was enough to make us anxious, since it was the first time we saw them from Pokhara during our visit.
4 hours later we arrived at Besisahar and registered ourselves to ACAP check point. We learned that it was possible to take a bus to Bhulbhule, so we did. And Julian&I enjoyed a lot, travelling on the top of the bus as Nepalis do:) on the road! if you could say.
Before start walking, we had a lunch with a Czech guy, who we met on the top of the bus. The trail starts with a long suspension bridge over Marsyangdi Khola (River). Following the river, we walked into the deep and wide green valley. It had been just 2 months after the Monsoons, and it was nearly impossible to see the soil under the trees and plants.
Up to Ngadi village, the trail was easy; but with the addition of my trekking gear,the weight of my backback had already started to disturb me. I decided to put on my boots instead of the casuals. Although I was relieved a little bit, still I was thinking the upcoming days. After Ngadi, the path got steeper and stoney. At the end of our 3 hours walk, we arrived at Bahundanda and agreed with the first lodge (50 Rp./person for bed) we saw.
The owner of our small lodge and his nephew joined us during our dinner. Delicious Tibetan bread, vegatable soup, lemon and fresh mint tea accompanied with a sincere conservation with the locals (and without other trekkers) were just the things we had wanted. Night ended around 9:30 PM, after agreeing with the Arg.s in order to meet at 8:00 AM in the morning for breakfast.
Bahundanda
DAY 2 ( Bahundanda - 1.310m. to Chamje - 1.430m. )
Day started with descending down to Syanje (1.100m). We gave a short break before ascending to Jagat. It was a very though climb; we were breathless at the end of it and luckily! there was a restaurant. After having my Dal Bhat ( the national and the only dish of Nepalis: Rice served with curry and vegetables in small spots - similar to Indian Thali. Nepalis eat 2 times every day. ), we followed an easy trail up to Chamje.
The lodge we stayed were being managed by 4 girls and a boy aged between 6-16. The father had gone to Kathmandu for business, no idea about their mom. They were like 'Little Women' in the kitchen, while preparing our dinner. Playing and dancing and cooking...:)
Chamje - Our Hotel
DAY 3 ( Chamje - 1.430m to Bagarchhap - 2.160m )
We started a little bit earlier than the previous day. I was thinking of my wet clothes, which were getting heavier. Due to the cloudy weather in the first 2 days (And since you're walking in very deep valley, the sun is avaliable for limited hours) and our trekking timing (8:00 - 17:00), I hadn't had the chance to dry them. The 3rd day was same as it were, the only soultion comes on my mind was to hang my stuff on my backpack one by one.
The first steep stone climb made me forget my problem easily. Just finished it and started to walk on a flat trail, I saw the next one with some locals and tourists gathered at the beginning of it. As we approached, it was understood that it was the Maoist check point.
The Maoists
An Israelite woman with her porter was arguing with the guys in order not to pay any fee. My image of the Maoists was a few serious looking armed men; but they were bunch of guys in sport pants and jeans with black sun glasses and a big spoilt smile on their faces. The Arg.s were discussing the issue among themselves in Spanish. After two trekker had given 1.000 Rp./person in the name of donation!, we told the Maoists that we were South Americans and had come from a long way, no porters, no guides because of insufficient money, etc. They requested from us to stand aside; they were seemed to be convinced and would let us pass after collecting from other trekkers waiting behind of us. As the 2 German girl had given 2.000 Rp./person and wished 'Bad Karma':) to them, we talked for a few seconds more and left them behind without any charge:)
Finishing the half an hour climb, it took us 20 min. to reach Tal, the first town of Manang District. It's a mid-size village, set near the Marsyangdi Khola, where you can find more variety of products and some trekking gear. Had our lunch and continued our way. The first hour was easy, but then we started to climb again and my stomach in bad condition (probably because of the soup I had in Tal) and my heavy backpack was slowing down me. I'd already fallen 30 min.- 45min. behind of my friends before Karte. It was getting thougher with each second; I was hoping the Arg.s to wait for me at the entrance of Dharapani and thinking of which clothes&things I could get rid of.
They weren't there when I arrived at Dharapani. I rested for few minutes in the ACAP check point, bought a Mars chocolate and continued to climb the trail to Bagarchhap. REMEMBER! If a Tibetan/Nepali tells you that the trail is almost flat/plain, it means you'll climb for few hundreds of meter - but on a wider mostly soil path:) The Mars really helped me to finish the 45 min. ascend. I started to ask my friends
to lodges, luckily they were in the second one. We screamed!, when we saw each other and sat in Renata&Juli's room for a half hour. Then I went to my room to rest for a while. It was 8:30 PM, when I woke up and the village and the lodge had been already sleeping. I puked in the toilet and went to my bed again. At last my stomach had been relieved.
............
During this 3 day, we fed very basicly: 2 eggs any style with shared chapati or tibetan bread for breakfasts, soups for lunchs, fried potatoes vith vegatables or chowmeins (noodle) for dinners, drank water filled from fountains after dropping iodine drops. The prices were too high compared to Pokhara and the information we had was that it would get higher as we ascended. The cloudy weather had also helped in killing our appetite. 600-700 Rp. was our daily cost per person.
Although every lodge was given the same price list including bed fees, we understood quickly that since the foods are priced so highly, generally lodges were OK for just billing for food&drink. The amatuer look we had without any porter and guide also helped us in our bargainings.
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